Monthly Archives: April 2009

Honouring Fridays: April 24th, 2009

It was a frustrating week.   It was one of those weeks that crush the spirit, drink your energy for breakfast, and then spend the rest of the day hammering away at any sense of confidence, understanding and intellect that you might have left.  The smallest tasks seem daunting and the thought of climbing out of bed each morning is exhausting.

I will be the first to admit that I do try to keep these kinds of days to the minority – I hate feeling this way and hate living this way.  But I also know that some great self-indulgent and self-focused care can ease even the worst week into nothing.

So to indulge myself this week I will endeavour to honour those things that this week did NOT go wrong, did NOT make me feel like a puddle of sludge, and did NOT cause me to throw my hands up in despair…

  • Mosquito nets.  In Kathmandu there are mosquitoes…not as many as in many places in the world and not of the malarial persuasion but still…they are a pesky and annoying addition to any dark and sleepy bedroom.  The constant buzzing, the surprise attacks just as you drift off the sleep, and the lovely red welts that decorate any exposed skin the next morning.  So, we bought a net for our bed.  With a few simple ropes we have now gently encased ourselves in a cozy haven, swaths of white netting romantically draping from the ceiling.  Aside from the intense and rather toxic chemical which make these nets killing machines, they are rather lovely and romantic.  And I haven’t heard a “bzzzzzzzzz” in at least a week.
  • Emergency drills, while tedious, help couples communicate.  This week VSO Nepal undertook their annual security drill.  A scenario is sent from London in the morning and offices need to practice their emergency procedures.  This year the scenario necessitated the evacuation of all VSO volunteers.  Through my work in the VSO Office, I was helping to contact the Education volunteers about evacuation procedures but also took the opportunity to contact myself and ask myself to evacuate.  Meanwhile, at the same time, Rex was being contacted about his evacuation procedures.  Except, he was given two options: 1) have VSO fly you back to your home country or 2) have VSO  give you the money for such flight but instead take a vacation.  So, in the case of an emergency evacuation, Rex will have chosen to vacation in Thailand and I will be back in Canada…whoops…good thing we sorted that one out before an actual emergency!
  • Gin.  and tonic. By Thursday, I had reached what I would call a gin and tonic crisis.  Hard to go wrong here…dependable and solid it made a mockery of my silly week and reminded me that sometimes the best medicines do come in a glass with a squeeze of lime.  Good thing that
  • …Friday was a holiday.  One less day for things to go wrong and the only day this week that found me eating pancakes, relaxing in a pool, and recharging the internal battery.

An opinion on the status of development work in Nepal

I heard a statistic the other day that there were over 33,000 registered NGO’s and INGO’s in Nepal – some active and some not, but still…a very large number of folks committed, in theory, to some kind of social change. 

After the past 5 months of listening, observing, understanding, and trying to make sense of it all, I must admit that I am stumped.  I am utterly confused about what the purpose of all these agencies truly is. And let me speak, somewhat more in turn here for a minute, within the boundaries of my work. 

I have read and digested countless statistics about access and quality of education in Nepal…bleak, bleak, and bleaker.  We still have about 30% of children not enrolled in school – and of course this number does not include the number of enrolled children who are technically “on the roster” but who just don’t come to school because they are working in brick factories, have a disability that prevents them from attending school, are HIV positive, or face discrimination in the classroom because of all the above OR because of their caste, gender, or the fact that they speak their own indigenous language.

Within that 30%, the proportion of children from these excluded groups is grossly over represented compared to population numbers (and even the population numbers are skewed as the last census was done in 2001…).

So, who should be held accountable?  Is it the government, who has been focused on waging a civil war for the past 10 years?  The donor agencies who try to solve every problem with money?  The community members, who have neither time nor energy to demand for much as they struggle to feed families and stay alive?  Or the thousands of NGOs and INGOs who seem to tackle every problem in isolation…never considering for a moment that perhaps a better approach would be to pool energy and resources and collaborate.

Nepal is a country of where inaction is so common that people have been paralysed by the influx and proliferation of development agencies.  The more NGOs and INGOs we can pack into this teeny country, the less responsibility we can demand from those who are truly responsible and the more chaotic, splintered and less cohesive are the voices of those who really matter.  

I realize that there are limitations to centralization of services and government intervention but I feel compelled to argue that I actually think we have entered into a state of dependency here.  Everyone has their own organizational or individual mission statements that inhibit the genuine work of helping people…and that is not even speaking of how this inhibits the possibility of any form of collaboration.  The only way to manage the collaboration is to work through a government system where they can collect, collate, and coordinate development efforts.

Instead what we have now is what I imagine must graphically look something like the work of a leaf blower: a few scattered piles that are tossed to the air at the first hint of a breeze, not for a moment likely to stay on course and land together at the same destination. 

It has become a development industry…a business in which people can secure a job as long as some blind-folded donor agency is willing to hand over the cash.  We know that talk is cheap here – it doesn’t matter what is promised or by whom – it is the action that is still missing. 

And yet, I can rant and rave about where I see development work faltering, but I cannot, for a moment, imagine how families and children who depend on development work for support would be impacted if it all ended.

We need leadership, vision, and action from government.  It can be certain that if the government direction is strong, ethical, and humane the INGOs, NGOs, and donors will be compelled to follow…

Happy Early Earth Day!

Happy early Earth Day!  Although two days early I wanted to be sure I didn’t forget.

In fact, I think we have been really celebrating Earth Day for the past 5 months, decreasing our energy consumption (we don’t really have a choice here!), water consumption, and food consumption…basically reducing our consumption…of everything (except for maybe rice and pirated DVDs…consumption on those has definitely gone up!).  We are living by the seasons which dictates so much of life here.

Seasons here are marked properly, in the agricultural tradition of seasonal cycles of fruits and vegetables.  It makes me laugh now to think how “novel” this idea has become at home.  We were full fledged participants of local and seasonal eating habits back in Vancouver and of course I knew it wasn’t a new idea.  Much of my childhood was spent in summer eating only food from the family garden and in winter devouring all that freshness through home canning and preserving.  However, when I returned to this idea as a young adult it was different – it was more glamorous to eat locally, more trendy to know a farmer, and more fancy-pants to consider your food miles before tucking in to a nice meal.

I had been fooled.  Local eating is one of the least fancy and least trendy habits of most of the world.  In Kathmandu, gardens pop up between apartments, appear from behind office buildings, or can be found hidden down the most unsuspecting alleyway.  In fact, I would bet that MOST of my fruits and vegetables come from within a 20 kilometer circumference.   And those that come from outside that distance come from our neighbouring country, India…eating locally is economically sustainable to most people here and provides the majority livelihood for the majority of Nepali citizens.  And the best part is that long-distance, imported options in the produce department simply are not available!  Here, eating locally is a real, humble, and humane act of necessity!

Tonight we are celebrating the fact that we have just moved through orange and lime season (from about November to February) and are moving into mango season!  But the best part is this is just phase one of at least a four-phase mango season.  Four distinct varieties will grace our plates this monsoon from now until about August and I look forward to trying them all – in lassis, curry, on yogurt, in muesli, slathered on toast, dipped in local coconut shreds, or drizzled with honey 🙂

So, our first crack at a cooked mango recipe was an adaptation of this delectable mango loaf.  Compliments to Rachelle S. who posted the recipe – I have shown my adapted version below for your perusal.  And I must admit that I hesitated to share it since I know that the majority of you DO NOT live in local mango growing areas…hmmm ethical dilemma.  So, I share it with you and trust that you will use it sparingly and in good conscience and wherever possible source your own local produce, not because it is trendy or cool, but because it is one of the nicest things you can do for the planet.

3 cups flour
1 cup sugar
3 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
2 eggs
1 cup oil
1 cup diced mango (about 2 medium mangos)

Preheat oven to 400F. Grease & flour loaf pan. In large bowl, sift flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Stir in milk, eggs, and butter. Mix until flour is just incorporated. Do not over mix. Gently stir in mangos. Pour the batter into the pan and bake for 40 minutes.

Makes 1 loaf.

Honoring Fridays: April 17th, 2009

Where to begin!  Last weekend we had a spectacular trip to Pokhara which has a spectacular location on Lake Fewa, nestled into the “hills” (read large incredible mountains which to the locals are nothing in comparison to the Himalayas but to everyone else are fully mountains).  It was our anniversary trip so we kept it totally unscheduled and just enjoyed the spontaneity and indulgence of it all.  Without a doubt the best part was the swimming pool – with temperatures hovering around a humid 30 degrees C, there was nothing more refreshing than spending the day in the pool.  Now for my weekly dose of gratitude…

  • Planning(as I call it)/Dreaming (as he calls it). Many of our conversations during the weekend centred around what the next year might bring – dreaming about the future and just what we imagined and hoped for ourselves and each other.  There is something utterly thrilling to think ahead to what is possible and let the mind race ahead a bit.  The risk, of course, is that present time is less appreciated, less thoughtfull spent, and less enjoyed.  However, we indulged and just dreamed about what might be…it was hopeful, inspired, and energizing…thanks to Pokhara for inspiring our next dreams.
  • Sweet chili sauce. Condiment of the gods, sweet chili sauce is one of the few condiments in our fridge (currently soya sauce, dijon mustard, butter, and sweet chili sauce are actually all that are in our fridge at all…we are confident that when the power is out they are “tough enough” to withstand some subtle warming without turning into poison).  What I do recommend is sweet chili sauce on friend rice.  Delectably spicy and sweet at the same time with the nice firm crunch of vegetables.  Better, in fact, than the traditional soya sauce.  Not at all Nepali in any way but cheap and tasty nonetheless.
  • Summer fabrics. With the onset of hot weather the prospect of shopping has once again popped into possibility.  Exceptionally cheap and perfect for hot weather is fantastic linens, cottons of every colour, hue, pattern, design and combination of emrboidery, sparkly sequins, or complex hand painting.  I will admit that the clothes I brought from home are no longer suitable for this weather – they are sticky, heavy, and these days at least 3 sizes too big.  That means a trip to my local tailor for something new…yipppee!
  • New load shedding schedules. All I can say is we are down from 19 hours a day to 12…it almost feels luxurious and decadent…its not…but it still feels like it, so while the euphoria lasts I am going to enjoy it.

Honouring Fridays: April 10th, 2009

Looking back on the past year it strikes me just how much my life has changed.  So much happened!  The anniversary of our elopment is this weekend on April 12th. Rex decided to pull a surprise and book a wonderful 4-day weekend in Pokhara…he spilled the beans this morning when he mistakenly mentioned that “while we are in Pokhara…”.  Also, many thanks to VSO for moving our marriage decision forward in a big way…got married so we could volunteer in Ethiopia and here we are in Nepal…whoops…well good thing that if we ever need to volunteer in Ethiopia we will be ready : )

This weekend will provide some time to reflect on the past year and dream about adventures in the year ahead.  Next week is also Nepali New Year – a timely moment to be celebrating our anniversary and thinking about the beginning of another year together.  This post is all my gratitude towards that handsome man in the photo over there…

  • The way you make me tea in the morning. Mornings begin early here.  And while this doesn’t mean we actually get out of bed before 6am, this does mean that the sounds of our neighbourhood waking up start around 4.30am.  So, there are many mornings when waking up is hard…regardless of how early you get to bed the night before, 4:30 is still an early time to begin the slow process of waking.  But the best, best, best part about every morning is knowning that you will sneak out of bed, walk down to the little shop on the corner and buy milk so we can have tea in the morning.  A small action but I know there is lots of love in that dudh chiyaa.
  • The way people just like you. I take some time to warm up to new people.  I am friendly enough but know that new friends will be kept at an arm’s length until I have made up my mind.  You, however, are just how I wish I could be – open, warm, genuine, and immediately likeable.  How many times have we met a new group of people and they have remarked to me, in confidence later, just how much they truly enjoy you.  You are everyone’s favourite warm-hearted soul and I am proud to snuggle my soul next to your kind soul.
  • Your passion…for libraries, for small towns, for rural life, for gardens, for technical gadgets, for peggle, for www.thegreenpages.ca, for blogging, for the West Coast, for my cooking, for the internet, for friends, for taking a nice walk, for enjoy what is, for adventure, for trying anything once, for taking care of people, for helping, for family, for goodness, for peace, for all that is right in the world.  It is contagious and inspiring to watch you dream and imagine what is possible.  I am a greater believer in the unreal and impossible because I see you make it real and possible every day.
  • Your hugs. Nothing is more comforting or more reassuring than coming home from a crazy day and walking into a warm hug from you.  That will always be the most satisfying and rejuvenating way to end any day.  May your hugs be ever more plentiful as we grow old together and may I always be there to hug you right back.

Chitawan

Exhausted but happy we arrived back in Kathmandu from a whirlwind trip to to the Nepal jungle.  Rather than try to write every last detail down, please consider joining me as your virtual guide, here, on a photo tour of our weekend in Chitawan.  The best way to view is with the slideshow option in Picasa – all photos have captions…sorry they are so long!

Enjoy!

Honouring Fridays: April 3rd, 2009

As you read this I am slowly making my way to Chitwan to bask in the tropical, humid, and hot jungles of Nepal.  If it makes you feel less jealous of me, you can bet that I am likely dripping with sweat, stickily uncomfortable while crammed into a small car with a dozen other people, and perhaps even stuck on some mud track somewhere either due to a road bloackade and protest or a landslide which has wiped the road clean away!  But your jealously is not about to detract from the single most exciting thing in the past 4 months:  I am about to ride an elephant 🙂

  • Falafel.  In efforts to expand my culinary repertoire I embarked on the ambitious and satisfying task of making falafel.  Mashed chick peas with spices, cilantro, grated carrots (my own addition for extra veg), sesame seeds, garlic and onion fried up in small patties to golden brown then stuffed into a warm, fresh, hand-rolled tortilla and topped with grilled paneer and a cabbage, carrot, and tomato salad.  Intense flavours and soul-satisfying textures.  A meal to remember!  And stunningly, uses all the same ingredients as my curry dinners but tastes totally different.
  • Culinary basics.  I have come to the conclusion that much of the worlds unique culinary flavours are still based on the same core ingredients.  I made a mexican, indian, and middle-eastern fare this week and used almost identical ingredients for everything – flour tortillas/roti, beans, tomatos, coriander, various veggies, garlic, onions, chilies, and rice!  By varying the spices slightly and cooking them in different ways, the result was 3 very distinct meals.  Kudos to our great agricultural forebearers who cultivated such adaptable, hearty, and basic ingredients that find themselves on tables all over the world.
  • Dark Was the Night.  This week a friend received one best presents to ever be sent – a teeny tiny USB key filled to the brim with new music!  While we sometimes feel utterly and incredibly connected here it is impossible to keep up with everything.  In my life, pop culture is floating adrift – I can keep up with news from home, the lives of friends and family, even what is happening at UBC in Student Development!  But music, movies, and tv are lost and I admit that I miss these things.  So this week, I soothed my musical ear and found one album that both musically and philosophically I resonate with.  A collaboration of various artists which supports the Red Hot Organization, an international HIV/AIDs charity organization.  Take a listen and soothe your soul.
  • The hopeful corner of my mind where future dreams are stored. I had a moment today where I once again contemplated a dream that I have carried for about 15 years.  I tucked it safely away with confidence that I would revisit it some day.  And I haul it out, turn it over, and try it on again (to see if it still fits).  Then I tuck it away again waiting for the right moment to tackle it.  Well, today I pulled it out and indeed it still fits…in fact it may fit better now that before!  Hurrah! I got all queasy and flushed thinking about it…it feels like it might just be the right time to embark on it and I can hardly contain my excitement.