Monthly Archives: June 2009

Rooted

home. my place and space, where water coloured edges fray with memories.

invisible roots plunge deeply and firmly, anchoring souls, like a salmon remembering their stream

home. my memories tumbling in the waves. they are smoothed and rounded and soft. the jagged edges no longer burn with salt.

the tides ebb and flow even when I am landlocked. the moon tugs at the current and waves rush to fill a small gap in my heart.

home. where deep, salty waters preserve my roots.

Honouring Fridays: June 26th, 2009

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Terrible nasty chest infection and head cold-2. Tlell-0. I had thought, and pardon the visual nature of this next paragraph (please skip if desctiptions of illness, bodily fluids or somewhat gross cultural habits make you the least bit naseous), that any sickness I would encounter in Nepal would likely result in symptoms of the spewing variety or the ever persistent and enviable “bottom explosion”. I discovered, however, that my achilles heal when it comes to sickness is respiratory. I must have a magnetic field that attracts the bugs that cause the worst possible head colds and chest infections. The coughing, hacking, I-just-swallowed-sandpaper, head pounding type of cold that confines one to the Neocitron, sleep, groggy movie watching, sleep cycle has gotten me twice in the last 6 months. And I have no doubt it will strike again. The plus…I can eat as much unwashed fruit and unsantized vegetables as I please and seemingly never have stomach or bowel problems…the minus…I still haven’t got the hang of blowing my nose by standing in the street, pressing one nostril in, blowing out the other, and letting whatever comes out drip into a puddle on the ground…I rely heavily on tissue and am a-ok to keep it like that…it just means I have to carry around rolls of toilet paper in my purse.

Asparagus. Like a light sabre of glowing green goodness, the pointy green spears lured me. I had never thought that asparagus would be a vegetable of discovery here in Nepal but just up the road from my house there is an small organic asparagus growing farm, which conducts research and hosts workshops on how local farmers can grow asparagus. I eagerly popped into the small lane and nosed around until I found the place. ALAS! They didn’t have any just yet…that was 4 weeks ago. And today (trumpets please!) the large grocery store near out house had bundles and bundles of them! Who could resist? Tomorrow morning, we plan to have an asparagus eating competition, followed rather closely by everyone’s favourite toilet game…how can you tell I ate asparagus today? 😉
Eating in restaurants where nobody asks you “how does everything taste?”. There was a moment of clarity this week when out eating in a restaurant where we realized why it was so much more enjoyable than eating out in Canada – they let you enjoy yourself and only interrupt when you beckon them! Genius! I am all for prompt and efficient service in restaurants but I do believe that the continual witty banter, checkin’ in, and crouching next to my table to really get to my level has gone a bit too far. Granted, sometimes you can feel neglected, ignored, or even snubbed but it doesn’t take long to realize that the power is really in your hands – when you want something you just have to ask and when you want for nothing, you can bask in it knowing that nobody is hovering to anticipate your every need.
All-natural silver cleaner. My silver jewelery has been taking a beating since we arrived (explains why every Nepali woman is decked out in gold…apparently silver tarnishes much faster than other metals and is accelerated in places with high humidity…Nepali women know best!). In efforts to stay away from harsh chemicals I did some quick searching for a natural solution. All you need is baking soda, aluminum foil and hot water! Or toothpaste.
Visitors! We are eagerly awaiting the arrival, in just over 2 1/2 months, of my parents from Canada. There is something so satisfying about having a date, firm and confirmed, in the near future when you will have a new injection of excitement into life. You get to see your new home through fresh and unjaded eyes which can make everything look so very different. I think it will gives us new appreciation for what an amazing adventure we are having and the last kick of energy before we close our time in Nepal. I am grateful for counting down…only 80 days left!

Honouring Fridays: June 19th, 2009

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The monsoon is a week late. The temperature has soared into the high 30’s and can only be set to rest with the advance of the monsoon. Apparently it is predictable – every year there is a date that all Nepali’s anticipate when the monsoon rains rush in and quench the thirst of farmers who need to rains for their rice crops. Being late is a big deal. Without the rains their rice crops will not produce the food that they require for their families. And it means that water in the capital city is also limited – less coming through the pipes means less stored in the large tanks atop many of the buildings in Kathmandu. The recent prediction is that it will arrive in 10-15 days…we hold our breath that the rice crops will still be viable and get comfortable with our sweat and dirt…the rains will come.

Airtreks. With tickets finally “in-hand” for our ridiculous round the world adventure (airport codes in order are: KTM-DEL-HKG-NRT-HNL-OGG-NRT-MNL-AUH-CDG-LHR-KEF-YYZ-YVR) that begins in January, I couldn’t be more grateful to the good folks at Airtreks for all their help. They helped us navigate our complicated route, found the best deals, and offered some great customer service. And although it looks expensive on the surface, when one considers the various flights and connections we are making it was pretty darn reasonable. While many of the legs will be just quick airport stops, some will be the beginning of incredible new experiences – who could resist a 3-day, no extra charge stop-over in Iceland!
New colleagues and new offices. Much to my great excitement, and what may go down as my single biggest accomplishment here in Nepal, my organization, National Campaign for Education, Nepal (NCEN…used to be GCE Nepal but they changed their name…long story) has a new office! And with that office comes a newly hired full-time Program Coordinator. I now work 3 days a week with my new colleague Sujata in a small house in Thapathali. We rent two small rooms on the cool and shady ground floor. She is keen, talented, and really fun to work with. Plus, she loves financial management and that is where we need to most help. I hope these final six months are full of good progress and am so grateful for some new energy at work. Plus, our office has an avocado tree in the yard…this will probably be the only time in my life I can say that 🙂
Didi. Didi is a Nepali word which means older sister. It is a term used for your actual older sister, but also used for a woman who is older than you, but not old enough to be your mom, whom you want to address somewhat respectfully (otherwise you would use bahini (sounds like tahini) which means little sister but is disrespectful if you use this term for someone older than you). In our house we have a lovely didi who washes our laundry for a small monthly fee of 500 NPR (about $8 CAD). She is the sweetest Nepali woman and we are so grateful to have her service. While I sometimes feel guilty for not washing my own clothes, the reality is that for many Didi’s who clean houses and do laundry, this is the only income they have. I will happily pay a fair and ethical wage to employee a local woman to earn some money.
Barfi. Alright now…stop giggling about the name. This is one of my favourite sweet treats in Nepal – an Indian treat that is actually widely available around the world. I prefer a pistachio or cashew barfi, but it can also be made with coconut, almonds, chick pea flour, chocolate, mango, or carrot! This weekend, I hope to try my hand at some barfi-making for a dinner party this weekend – I will try to post some results of that effort and let you know how the carrot barfi turns out!

More perspectives on aid and development work

In my continued effort to wrap my brain around the aid and development field and my endless internal debates about what I really think, what I think I should think, and what I am actually seeing, I am always thrilled when friends, who have much more experience in this whole biz than I, send me links to things that throw new ideas into the mix.

Many thanks to K for sharing these short videos, from Beyond Good Intentions. More food for thought 🙂

Honouring Fridays: June 12th, 2009

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As many of you know the past week was a momentous. Tomorrow marks exactly 7 months since arriving in Nepal and tomorrow also marks the beginning of the last 6 months we will spend here! A big decision, not taken lightly, that we will be departing this beautiful country in January and embarking on some travel adventures to Hawaii, the Philippines, Europe, and Toronto, before returning back to the West Coast around September 2010. Described in 4 words it feels: marvelous, satisfying, sad and thrilling.

Mango squeeze. I talk about mangoes every week. They continue to amaze me with their variety, ability to satiate the sweetest of teeth, and health properties. But this week, I would like to highlight their portability! Not normally lauded for their ease of opening, slicing, and eating I have come to learn that they are one of the most portable snack foods around. Provided, you know the right way to eat them. I like to call this a “mango squeeze”:

Instructions:

Buy a small ripe mango – the small Philippine kind works well – should fit easily into the palm of your hand.

Gently squish the mango with your thumb, slowly working the fruit away from the peel and pit inside. Note…mango is still whole and uncut…skin is completely sealed.

Bite a small hole in the skin at the end of the mango, where it was once attached to a branch.

Slowly and carefully squeeze the pulp from the skin. Eventually, all you will be left with are pit and skin – toss into the compost and relish the fact that you are free from sticky mango juice and have eaten the whole thing.

Alternate perspectives on aid. Before coming to Nepal, I previously believed that development work, was a field of work built on passion, social justice, and mutual respect. And while I have met some incredibly inspiring individuals who embrace these qualities, the reality is that development is an industry. The money that channels through these countries is astounding! For a country like Nepal, with up to 50 years of development work, the money has long been sufficient to create a more equal, fair, and inclusive society. But, there is no incentive to achieve this vision, as it would mean a loss of jobs for many, many people. Enter a brilliant economist, Dambisa Moyo, whose perspective on aid in Africa, while contentious and provocative, is truly a reflection of what I have observed in Nepal.
Having friends around the world. Since we posted a quick update about our travel plans starting in January, we have been flooded with lovely offers of places to stay and people to visit all over Europe. Nothing is more heart-warming than knowing that despite long gaps of time there are people willing to welcome you into their home and share a meal with a wandering visitor.
This. “When you care enough to hit send.”

And a special “welcome to the world” shout out to new baby Frei who arrived yesterday! Congrats to the family and watch out Ohio…you now have a Frei/Mordarski on the loose 🙂

Honouring Fridays: June 5th, 2009

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The weekend ahead is full relaxing – no plans and no plans to make any plans. When I started posting blogs on Fridays the idea was to recognize just how much potential and excitment was wrapped into a Friday – to honour that magical anticipation with some bold words of appreciation. I am amazed that after writing posts for every Friday since January, I am still full of things to be grateful for. And while I may have slipped for moments of whining, focussing on the positive things has certainly kept my spirits high and my perspectives in check…no problems, just inconveniences 🙂

Lychees. The season of fresh lychees is in full swing all over Nepal. The rough brown and pink exterior hides inside a rather gelatinous looking eyeball of sweet, juicy goodness. I, for one, don’t mind the texture but I could see how it may throw some people off. Eaten by the dozens they leave the fingers sticky with sugar and rough shards of husk everywhere! But they are beautiful to look at and sold by the 1 kg bunch from the neighbourhood fruit seller. I discovered that I had many unanswered questions about the lychee that wikipedia just didn’t have the answers to – enter LycheesOnline with the best set of FAQs I could find including “Can I plant the seeds from my lychee fruit to grow a lychee tree?” – everytime I eat a lychee is this the question I ask myelf. The answer – YES!
Change. The VSO Office in Nepal is undergoing some very drastic changes over the next few months. Staff are moving on to new opportunities, having babies, and shifting focus. Additionally, there is a large corporate strategic review happening right now as well. Everything is in flux. Nothing feels stable or firm. However, deep inside that change is opportunity. It is small, hard to see, and sometimes only evident after squinting for a really long time, but in the distance is the light at the end of the tunnel that brings fresh ideas, renewed energy andexceptional creativity. There is much to be grateful for but today I am grateful for possibilities.
Will Ferrell in Man Vs. Wild. So, Man vs. Wild is apparently, a really popular show on Discovery channel. I don’t watch it but I couldn’t resist downloading an episode that featured the Man (Bear Grylls) out in the Arctic of Sweden with Will Ferrell. It was fantastic! And it helped cool me down with the scenes of snow and ice in this humid hot house of an apartment.
Getting out of Kathmandu. Last weekend we took to the river and had an amazing time rafting through the green hills of Nepal. What I appreciated most about this experience was that it pulled the focus away from Kathmandu and reminded me just how incredible Nepal truly is. The geography is extreme, the beauty is intense, and the poverty is very real. But the poverty, while shocking to some, is simply life for many Nepalis. They eat what they can grow and live simply. So, while we make every effort to help Nepali people eliminate poverty, let us not also remove their ability to choose in the process. While we may see the benefits of refrigerators, cement houses, and products for every possible cleaning dilemma, they see the benefits of house made from local materials, eating daily and not relying on foods that need to stay cold, and having immune systems that cleaning products would actually weaken. Poverty is not equivalent to a desire to change or a need for a different life. It means the need for food, clean drinking water, and education – and then choice to determine the type of life they want.

Fresh pictures from a rafting extravaganza!

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Spent last weekend floating down the Trisuli River with a great group of friends. Two full days of rafting with the night in between camping on a lovely sandy beach along the river.

Two shout outs for the great trip. The first, a local family run company, International Adventures Treks & Expeditions that organizes such adventures – Harka and his wife Emma are two of the best folks we have met here in Nepal. He is a past Gurkha and Emma is an import from the Phillipines so we feel right at home. They have joined us on our trips to Chitwan and rafting, so it feels more like family than anything else. Second, Himalayan River Fun, our actual guides who moved us safely down the river, cooked fantastic meals, and hauled us all back into the raft following extended swims as we floated down the river.

A selection of some of the best photos and videos full of action and fun are uploaded here. But a few of the extra special ones below for your viewing pleasure.