Monthly Archives: July 2009

Honouring Fridays: July 31st, 2009

So, I am actually rambling away on a Thursday evening writing this blog. It is the eve of my first all-nighter in Nepal. A proposal so flawed it needs its own reality TV show must be perfect by tomorrow morning. So, to warm up the writing juices getting a jump start on the blog seemed like a good idea – especially because it reminded me to be grateful, as Fridays always do. Now, with a better, healthier, and more positive outlook on this all-nighter I am going to get to it.

Naspati. Another week, another magical fruit season. New to markets these past two weeks are naspati, the ubiquitous asian pear/applepear/Pyrus pyrifolia. These round and crunchy fruits are kin to the pear and while expensive at home, come at a ridiculously affordable price here. Last weekend for our regular Saturday gathering (where I have found my niche as honoured dessert maker) I made a poached version with a few tweaks to this recipe from Marvin at Burnt Lumpia. Instead of wine I used pomegranate and grape juice to poach, meaning I skipped the additional sugar in the poaching liquid. Served cold with fresh cinnamon cream, the reduced poaching liquid, and homemade cashew and almond granola they were delicious! Perhaps if you get yourself over here in the next month I could make you some…provided they are still in season…oh who am I kidding…if they aren’t in season something else delicious will be, so get the heck over here!

Girlfriends. Hard to imagine life without the care and love of a good group of girlfriends. But this week I think I realized just how much I miss those friends who are simultaneously an adviser and empathizer. They help sort out the myriad of emotions and yet somehow manage to remain both level-headed and compassionate – feeling what you feel but not getting so deep into the crux of it that they are no longer able to help dig you out. And they know you well enough to know when to challenge or to simply agree, when to pour a glass of wine or reach for the gin and tonic, and when a little laughter is better than tears. They just know. Thank you so much to all my girlfriends who have reached out over the past week with emails, snail mail, packages, and good thoughts. It was just the love I needed this week.
Knowing that I still have lots to learn. I guess this is not a new revelation. No thunder crashed or lightening flashed when I told myself this afternoon that I still have so much to learn. Because I actually don’t think this state of mind ever really changes. I always think I have much to learn, but the harder part is being grateful for it. It isn’t about being young or old, schooled or unschooled, experienced or unexperienced – it is about curiousity – about retaining that curiousity when you are learning something you maybe don’t want to learn. And that is something I still have to learn…to appreciate the lessons that are the hardest to appreciate.
Randomwebsitegenerator. Sometimes I need inspiration. And I read this article just the other day that suggested using randomly generate websites to inspire solutions to problems (they called them probortunities…don’t even get me started!). And I remembered a number of years ago this website that helped generate random URLs. So I tried it and found inspiration here, and here, and here, and here…places I may never have found otherwise if it wasn’t for my trusty randomwebsitegenerator friend. Thanks for the randomness friend!

Fear.

Honouring Fridays: July 24th, 2009

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Last weekend we took a fantastic day-trip hiking along the edge of the hills that surround the Kathmandu Valley. Spectacular views, excellent company, incredible Buddhist monasteries, and some much needed peace were the highlights. The single low-light: the most crowded and painful microbus ride through almost knee deep monsoon puddles after waiting for 45 minutes. It was totally worth the pain but clearly I need some practice on the whole Buddhist zen…the following conversation occurred between me and my brain during said painful micro ride:

Breathe in deeply (except while my nose is crammed into the armpit of the guy in front of me).

Breathe out deeply (and hope that guy in front of me doesn’t mistake my excellent belly-breathing as a sexual advance).

Let all the muscles from the top of your head to the bottom of your toes just relax and release (except for the muscles that are hanging on for dear life to the roof of the 10-person microbus that is currently carrying me and 50 other people through torrential rains).

Close your eyes (but occasionally scan the rain streaked windows for any landmark that looks familiar where I can make a fast exit).

Imagine you are floating (actually, I am floating, there are so many people on this bus that they have squished me upwards for lack of space and your feet are no longer connected with the ground).

Your weight is fully supported by a gentle breeze (actually it is not a breeze but the heavy breathing of the 50 people crammed inside this small space).

Let any thoughts you have surround themselves in bubbles and float away (how do I surround every curse word I have ever known in a bubble?).

Allow yourself to drift away, slowly, gently into the state of peace (or how about I just get the heck off and find a damn taxi!).

So despite my inability to release my ego and be zen, I do have many things to be grateful for.

Bacon. Greasy and salty, crunchy and chewy, deeply savoury goodness in the form of a fried strip of pig meat. Bacon is something I rarely eat here in Nepal. But the breakfast buffet at the hotel I stayed at for a workshop this week served bacon. And I ate it. All of it. I couldn’t stop myself – I actually went for a second helping of just bacon…who does that??!!! I think it reminded me of home and filled some sort of hole in my soul. It felt almost spiritual – like some inner food-god connection had been unleashed. Perhaps if I had carried some bacon on the micro with me the conversation above would be different. Don’t you worry bacon…we will have a rendezvous again soon, although this time I might just arm myself with some lettuce and tomato. Until then, I will keep you in my thoughts here.
I am grateful for realizing that it’s no longer my problem. We had a proposal due for funding today. It isn’t yet finished. I don’t know when it will be. We might get an extension but we might not. I poured heart and soul into helping to write this thing but couldn’t do it alone. I asked for help and nobody heard my call. I was seriously saddened and frustrated until I spoke with a good colleague, Jeevan, and he reminded me that it wasn’t my problem. I was propping up a crumbling building alone – even if I managed to stabilize one corner, it was still doomed to crumble. I did everything I could but if the building crumbles…I will be sad but it’s just no longer my problem.
Being in the right place at the right time. During our hike and monastery visits last week, just as we arrived at the final monastery, the thunder began to clap and a light rain began to fall. Almost at the exact same time a large drum began to sound inside the monastery. The Buddhist monks were being called to prayer. It was a practice of one of the traditional Tibetan chants. We were able to sneak inside and sit near the back and observe the ritual chanting. It was a beautiful combination of sounds – the booming of large drums marking a return to mindfulness, the gentle snap of fingers when a particular state of consciousness or being had been achieved and the gentle murmur of about 100 voices repeating the soft and rounded Tibetan words. With the rains outside it was the perfect place to be, without a plan and finding ourselves sitting on the edges of daily life in a monastery.
Rex. He has been trying to make it onto my blog for weeks. But I always tell him that I am ALWAYS grateful for him so don’t need to blog about it every week. But this week, I am more grateful for him than usual. He has been away in Hetauda and I am always reminded, when he is gone, just how much support, love, kindness, patience, laughter, and joy he brings to my life. You made the blog sweetie – now get on that crowded smelly microbus and come home soon!

Mehendi

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I blogged a couple weeks ago about the importance of the month of Shrawan to women. Many of the activities this month lead up to Teej (which, by the way I had mistakenly said was in July but which is actually near the end of August) and another important practice for many high caste, Brahmin Hindu women is the application of beautiful mehendi designs of intricate details to the palms of their hands. Traditionally, they apply the henna the night before the first day of the month of Shrawan, which was Wednesday night this week.

The ready-mixed henna paste is stuffed into a foil cone that narrows to a pin prick at the bottom (in fact a pin is inserted in the narrow end of the cone to keep the henna inside the cone). You can buy the dry powder but the cone is just much easier, especially for a novice like me. Remove the pin and gently squeeze the cone to release a narrow thread of the paste.

Before applying the henna women first, coat their palms with lemon juice or sugar water and let it dry. This helps the paste adhere really well to the skin and not flake off. Many women will apply the henna on the last night of the month of Bhadra and sleep with the henna on their hands until the next morning. It really does stick like glue to skin and can be difficult to get off, although it still feels a bit crunchy, like applying a face mask to your hand.

I timidly began to draw a design, having no idea what would be suitable. My colleague from work gave me a few ideas which was good asI think it helped make it look more authentic. But it was hard to get it as detailed as I would have liked. I saw some women on the bus the next day whose hands were so finely decorated it look like a red lace glove on their hand.

Below is a before and after picture of my first attempt – not too bad I think! Apparently, the darker the henna stains, the more your husband loves you…they say mine was very dark… 🙂

My hand with Mehendi still on — My hand with mehendi still on

Honouring Fridays: July 17th, 2009

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This week was difficult. A couple of experiences reminded me just how much distance remains in moving to a place where everyone has enough to eat, a warm bed, and the ability to have a small degree of choice in their own destiny. I recently read a great quote in a book, The People’s Act of Love, about what those who have never really suffered think when looking at those living in poverty. “And you thought: they’re used to it. But that was how those who suffered less always thought about those who suffered more, that they were used to it, that they no longer felt it as you did. Nobody ever got used to it. All they learned to do was to stop letting it show.” This week, I looked more closely at people around me and realized the truth of this statement. Nobody here is truly adjusted to being poor – they are just very good at disguising how it makes them feel. It can feel overwhelming and impossible to imagine how we can help millions and millions of people escape the cycles of poverty – dauntingly huge and terribly important. So this week I am reminded just how grateful I am for the basic essentials of life.

Having enough to eat. Many of the remote Districts in Nepal are facing a drastic food shortage this year. The late monsoon, still only barely having dampened the soil, will drastically reduce production and those who are subsistence farmers, producing only enough food to feed their families, will risk starvation. Land fertility is also decreasing due to increased use of harsh chemical fertlizers. It is easy to feel very distant from such basic needs when shelves are stocked high with packaged and imported foods. The “have money, will pay” philosophy wins out – those who have money will never feel the effects of going without food. It will always be those who simply cannot afford to eat anything but what they grow that will die from starvation. Our bellies are over-full. We have absolutely no reason to ever complain.
Feeling secure and safe. Recently in Kathmandu there has been a tidal wave of insecurity due to a rash of kidnappings. The fear and worry has gotten to a point where groups of citizens have taken the law into their own hands and killed people they suspected to be kidnappers only to find out that they were not. Previously, kidnappings were politically motivated and occurred between parties. But now, it seems the are more motivated by money – an easy way to extort money from wealthy families. There is nothing safe and secure about being a parent or child in Kathmandu these days. I am grateful for not feeling that my life is at risk.
My health. In the far western region of Nepal there has been a recent outbreak of rather terrible diarrhea. It started months ago but caused no alarm within the power capital of Kathmandu. It took up to a month for the government to mobilize any medical teams to address the problem. And it is now too late. They are assuming that it is a result of unsanitary drinking water (also no move has been made to rectify this problem) and are blaming the disaster on poor public awareness about sanitation. I am ever grateful for public health care and clean drinking water. We have an exceptional facilities in Canada – there is always room for improvement but I can be pretty certain that it is very unlikely that I will die from unclean water or extreme diarrhea. And that is something to be incredibly grateful for.
I got to go to school…even though I was a girl…and they spoke my language in the classroom. The government released the new budget this week, much to the anticipation of many citizens. Working in education advocacy in Nepal means that the most important number in the budget was the allocation to education. Did we see an increase? Will it be enough to carry out the promise of free and compulsory education for all Nepali children? Well, the budget came in at about 16% – not terrible, but not a great improvement. It is true that it is the most that education in Nepal has ever been allocated. But the international standard and recommended allocation is 20% of the GDP. Salaries for employees make up the bulk of this 16%, leaving little left for scholarships, textbooks, classrooms, resources, and teacher training. The quality of education depends on the quality of the government’s investment. Without a stronger investment there will continue to be girls, ethnic minorities, and Dalit children who will go without access to this basic right. If you can read this then you have many reasons to be grateful.

Honouring Fridays: July 10th, 2009

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We are rounding the corner to the end of month 8 in Nepal. It is really, really hard to believe. But when I look at my life here, maybe it’s not so hard to believe after all. I barely notice the roving cattle in the middle of the busy streets, I am adept at dodging various forms of excrement on the sidewalk, I didn’t blink when I saw the fruit man sharpening his knife on the edge of the curb, I feel naked with a jauntily tossed scarf around my neck, mangos have become their own food group, I can jump from taxi-micro-bus-tuk-tuk easily and without hesitation, I walk into oncoming traffic regularly and am confident that a brief wave of the hand will allow me to cross safely, and I am starting to think that the earlier in the day one gets to eat something curried, the better.

Teej. Shrawan is the name of the Nepali month from mid-July to mid-August. Typically, all Nepali months are about the same length as Roman calendar months but they begin halfway through a Roman month and end halfway through the next Roman month. Shrawan is an important month on the Nepali calendar for women. During this month is the celebration of Teej. Teej is a festival of women filled with dancing, singing, ritual bathing, and fasting for up to 3 days. Red clothes are typically worn during this time to symbolize joy and happiness, reflecting also the marriage ceremony when women wear red saris. Married women pray for happy marriages and healthy, long lives for their husbands. Unmarried women pray for finding a good husband. What I appreciate is a whole month with a strong focus on women. True, the focus is on the role of women as wives, which seems limited and perhaps slightly old fashioned, but here in Nepal this is a very important role. For me, it will be more about women coming together in kinship, spirit, and celebration. And I did buy some green glass bangles, which promote health and good blessings for your husband…can’t hurt right?
My new lunch spot. With the new office move I found myself without the common comforts of my old office. Most notably lunch! We had such lovely daal bhaat and curried vegetables every day and the thought of packing a lunch and slogging it all the way to work was unappealing. So, I and my colleague Sujata, stepped out to find a nearby eatery. We walked about 10 meters down the road. And stopped. And there was a lovely, small, local, and bustling shop. Owned by a gracious and kind family that has developed a strong customer base from the private school next door – oodles of uniformed children stop there for snacks after class. They sell some of the best samosas, alu chop (like a heavily spiced, chickpea flour coated, deep fried, mashed potato finger), and vegetable momos I have found in my time in Nepal. And the momos are about 25 NPR which is about 25 cents….hard to beat. Now we go twice a day – once in the morning for tea and samosas and once for lunch of momos, chops, and a cool Sprite.
Homemade Sun Tea. Easily one of the most thirst quenching, satisfying, and quick drinks to make. Tea is plentiful, sugar is local, and small lime/lemons – kargatti – are always available. Plus, the regular and intense sunshine makes perfect sun-tea! I read the numerous warnings about the health risks of sun tea (seriously?) and decided that the risks for sun tea and decidedly less risky than most of the other food I ingest on a daily basis. I have taken to using flavoured teas like raspberry and peach (can’t get the real fruit here so the subtle flavour infused in the tea satisfies the basic need). Topped with some sugar and fresh squeezed kargatti – delicious!
Gandharba musicians. One of my great VSO colleagues, Raj, comes from the musical Dalit caste, also called the Gandharba caste. Historically, castes were formed by grouping certain professions. Professions that were considered favourable, powerful, or prestigious are upper castes. And those that were considered menial, degrading, or sacrilegious were deemed lower caste. The arts, overall, were considered low caste professions and as such many of the Nepali artists belong to the Dalit caste. Raj is passionate about his history and spends every free moment, when not working on VSO stuff, promoting, sharing, and enhancing the public awareness of the Gandharba caste. Today he was featured on a national radio program, he regularly writes articles for various publications, has won international awardsfor his work on Dalit issues, and he has recently helped to create a relationship with a musical school in India which provides a scholarship to one Nepali musicians each year and has just begun to offer a course in traditional Nepali music. I am grateful for all he does to work on behalf of Dalits in Nepal, especially the very talented Gandharba musicians. To download some Gandharba music to sample look here.

Honouring Fridays: July 3rd, 2009