Monthly Archives: November 2009

Honouring Fridays: November 27th, 2009

The week is almost through and the relief and excitement about some serious relaxing and downtime is starting to creep into the mind. It was an 8 day work week with events, interviews, and meetings to fill the time. Somehow, the pace has reminded me of what work life must be like back home and I find I am more efficient and more satisfied with the increase in pace. Does this mean I am better suited to a faster work environment? Or have I not fully adjusted to the slower pace of life here? It might be a shock to arrive home and discover how quickly life will move but somehow I think it will suit me just fine 🙂

Peppermint. It might be the impending Christmas season that has driven this obsession with peppermint but I just can’t seem to get enough of the peppermint tingle. I have a peppermint chapstick, soap, lotion, and now drink a steaming cup of peppermint tea every night. I have dreams of brewing hot chocolate and then steeping a peppermint teabag in the sweet mixture – who needs a Starbucks’ peppermint mocha when you can have that instead!
Letting someone else take control. It is far too easy for me fall into the routine of trying to control and plan everything…I am an organizer…a list maker. I claim those titles proudly, usually, but every once in awhile (and forgive me those of you who are free spirits who would not think for a moment that any of this was truly giving up control…indulge me while I stretch my own boundaries and next time you attempt to make plans I will not scoff in your direction) I enjoy the thrill of letting someone else into my kitchen :). So, this week…I let R make dinner! We had buffalo-mushroom-tomato pasta and it was delicious! I relinquished control in the kitchen and now I am having visions of simply never going back in – that’s how tasty it was!
Being invited into “real life” in Nepal. My colleague Sujata’s son, Ayush, celebrated his 2nd birthday this week. And to my surprise she invited R and I over for dinner and celebration. This was a sign of both comfort and true friendship as the only others who were invited were family. It was a very special evening for us. Her small family of husband, son, and a young girl who looks after her son live in a very tiny 2-room apartment. One small bedroom where everyone sleeps and a small kitchen area for cooking. She admitted earlier this week to being a bit shy about inviting us over, feeling as though her small apartment would be too small and uncomfortable for us. She had need not worried as we felt absolutely comfortable and at home in her place. But I also cannot help but feel somewhat shameful that my presence would cause her such worry – as if somehow I required more or expected something fancy – that what she could offer would not be good enough. It was more than good enough – it was real, true, and everyday life in Nepal – so much richer than anything we have experienced in our work or travels here. We absolutely loved being part of the fun and enjoyed much food, laughter, and playing with the kids. I will remember that night with such fondness and know that I have truly made a friend (and family) for life.
Irony. Dear man who caught the same tuk-tuk as me on Tuesday afternoon. I saw you lounging around outside the vehicle sucking in a final cigarette before we departed. You seemed to really enjoy the smoking – the hot smoke easily filling your lungs and slowly being exhaled in a bluish-white haze around your head. But I am a little confused. Was the face mask you donned following the cigarette meant to shield your lungs from air pollution?

Honouring Fridays: November 20th, 2009

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As I snuggled down into bed for a few more minutes of warmth and rest this morning I wished, for just a moment, that it wasn’t Friday. This particular Friday represented the end of calm and the beginning of a rather severe work storm. For the next seven days I will be attempting to support the organization I work with in the following ways: 1) hire a senior level Program Director, 2) hire a finance and administration officer, 3) co-host a workshop with the Association of International NGOs in Nepal and the Department of Education, and 4) plan and co-facilitate a 3-day strategic planning retreat. It all feels rather overwhelming placing me completely out of my depth. Somehow the work of 2 months seems to have been packed into the next week. And like anything difficult sometimes the best way is not around, but through. So, I will keep my eye on the sunny spot in the distance when the hard work is complete and we can celebrate our achievements. Until then, the head is down and the ploughing through has begun.

High school friends. There was a time when I thought that I would never lose touch with everyone I knew from high school. And then we all lost touch. Looking back it actually wasn’t that gradual – I escaped to my own adventures immediately following high school and was so absorbed in myself that I think I forgot my roots. It was not an intentional happening but due in part to geographical distance and in part to the need to find out who I really was. So, after many years, it has been so wonderful to see that some of those friends are slowly circling back, thanks in large part to facebook. This week one such friend was in Nepal and so he and his fiancée joined us for a lovely dinner. We had both changed but yet we were also absolutely the same. The conversation was spectacular and the company comfortable, familiar, and inspiring. Thanks to BK and L for a great time and for reminding me that those distant friends from high school are still friends, regardless of how far we may have drifted. Hope to see you again soon.
A busy week ahead. A busy week ahead means that work is happening which means that somehow our work has become important once again which means that someone cares which means that we can secure time and commitment from them which means we can achieve some of our goals which means that our donors will be happy which means that we may get more money which means that our work is slightly more sustainable which means that my work here is almost done.
Thinking like a duck. I have found a new inspiration for a more zen-like state of mind (and I will admit that zen is not my natural state of mind, so it does take me some rather intense work to achieve anything remotely close to zen-like mind). The inspiration is ducks, particularly duck plumage. I need to learn to be a better duck and waterproof my “feathers”. Let more things roll off my back without sticking. In the end, the stressors tend to be things I cannot control anyway – so why not “duck” them!
Goodbyes. This weekend some of our good friends and bananagrams partners, Anil and Julie, are departing Nepal and heading back to the UK. The poignancy of goodbyes here is influenced by the fact that often these may be people that you will never see again. But in this case, I am thrilled to say goodbye as they are returning to a wonderful life in the UK and will get to spend Christmas with their daughters and extended family. Plus, I know we will see them again in a few short months during our trip around the world. Safe travels friends and look forward to seeing you in May!

Taken for a ride

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So I have a story. In fact, this story took place almost a year ago, but I had almost forgotten about it until last weekend when it jumped back to mind. My story goes something like this.

Enter a blonde Canadian woman looking moderately overwhelmed but determined. She approaches a busy intersection to try and flag down one of the ubiquitous micro vans which will ferry her dutifully from here to there. One approaches and with an air of confidence she expertly flags it over, just like the other volunteers had taught her. The van stops.

Usually, a young boy pops out of the sliding back door shouting and urging anyone who looks interested into the back line of seats. But this time, no boy. After a few pulls on the securely locked back door, the driver and his one passenger wave her into the front of the cab which is a common occurrence at the beginning of a micro run – the plum seats are often those at the front (provided the sight of near-miss car crashes doesn’t give you a weak stomach) as it is easier to get out when your stop arrives. So, off the trio goes, merrily through the foggy and cool morning towards the drop point for our intrepid commuting blonde Canadian.

After a few minutes, our main character begins to look perplexed. Apparently the van isn’t making the usual stops along the way. In fact, the van isn’t making ANY stops. She voices her destination again, with a hint of panic and the two cab mates smile and nod. So, it would seem that our mistress of accident has in fact just hailed her own chariot (or abduction vehicle, depending on the end of this story). She glances around the van for any signs of ill-intent but sees nothing for any concern. Meanwhile her driver and friend have been eagerly speaking Nepali to her, testing her limited vocabulary and causing any nervous mistakes to quickly tumble from her mouth (not to mention the sweaty palms, frantic eyes searching for an escape, or the possible scenarios she imagines that may bring her untimely death…but yes…those little trifles…so much less interesting than sustaining a clear and coherent Nepali conversation).

As the van approaches her immediate destination it slows and then stops. She tumbles from the van, a sigh of relief escapes from her lips and she reaches for 10 rupees from her pocket, the fare originally intended for the micro, and looks bewilderingly at her escorts. They shake their heads, grin, and shout “Have a great day!”, taking pleasure from the fact that they were able to offer this foreigner a lift for part of her journey and have a great story for the rest of the day. And off they go, before she has a chance to return the thanks and give them an honest and genuine smile no longer hiding uncertainty.

No folks, this wasn’t a micro. Just your regular old work van with two guys off to work – I can’t imagine what they thought of this girl who just hopped into their van for the ride. Needless to say, their offer was kind-hearted and I still smile when thinking about it. Just one more thing to be grateful for…honest and good people.

Honouring Fridays: November 13th, 2009

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Today is our 1-year anniversary of arriving in Nepal! I can easily recall the feelings of excitement, nervousness, and uncertainty that rumbled through me. I remember it being colder than I expected and that the sights, colours, smells, and sounds were overwhelming. I noticed the other day while riding a small tuk-tuk home from work that I was almost dozing during the ride – day-dreaming and not thinking about where to get off, what to watch out for, and what to do next. What a change from when I would have my nose pressed against the window to see every moment of the trip. I clearly have some comfort and ease with life in Kathmandu now – I live with more confidence.

And arriving today are 16 new volunteers – tonight we will welcome them with a party – and I can only hope that the same feelings I had one year ago will be slightly eased through conversations with those of us who have learned to live here with confidence.

For myself, I have learned that it takes courage, patience, persistence, flexibility, and a good sense of humour to enjoy life here – may I carry these abilities into the next year full of adventures!

The beginning of the fresh produce season! Like any food growing endeavour, there are certain seasons in which certain vegetables grow the best. As we move into the cool months, Fall if you will, we join many countries around the world that are engaged in harvesting. The vegetables coming into our local shops these days are incredibly delicious and almost cartoonish in their bold and vibrant colours. The cool weather has brought back the orange glow to the carrots, the deep purple sheen to the onions, the creamy whiteness of the cauliflower, and the ruffled and dewy leaves of bright green spinach and mustard. There is no question that the vegetables we are eating are the freshest we have seen in a long time. It is a wonderful time to cook in Nepal and to reap the flavours, colours, and tastes of a wonderful harvest…not to mention the beautiful bundles of golden yellow ripe rice stalks draped across in the paddies.
Functioning governments. Granted that there it is something of an oxymoron to place the words “functioning” and “governments” in the same sentence. But I sometimes think that the Canadian government is possibly the most efficient, well-oiled, and proactive bureaucracy around…in comparison that is. As Nepal struggles to overcome poverty, lack of infrastructure, impossible geographic terrain, drought, poor health care, human rights issues, and education development what holds them back nine times out of ten is a government that simply doesn’t function. And by “doesn’t function” I mean a government that actually doesn’t meet regularly and when they try to meet the whole process is derailed due to a agitating groups blocking the parliament from meeting. And not just for a day or two, but for months going on years! Not to mention the corruption, deceit, lies, targeted killings, and oppression perpetrated by many government officials. So, despite the petty and often ridiculous antics of politicians back home I am actually pretty grateful for how much our government does for us…regardless of who is in power.
Christmas carols. So, normally in my books November is WAYYYY too early to bust out the jingle bells and sing along to deck the halls. But, being away from my regular traditions and seasonal cheer I allow myself to break the rules. So, on a powerless night last week I did the unthinkable and turned on my Christmas playlist. And it was excellent! Something so simple that immediately feels familiar and happy. I think what makes Christmas carols so good is that they really do bring an atmosphere of cheer and suddenly I am remembering all that is so wonderful about this time of year. So, on your next “silent night”, bust out a carol and feel grateful for everything you love about Christmas.
Finding the right words. There is nothing more satisfying than being able to take a feeling that has stuck with you for a time and put that feeling into words. When the words can tumble from your mouth and sound like a perfect description for something previously indescribable, it is magic. I believe that these kinds of words are the sweetest to hear. They rumble and resonate with the heart and the brain, satisfying both the heart’s need for expression and the brain’s need for explanation.

Honouring Fridays: November 6th, 2009

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Pesky head cold. It’s back again which has meant two days of relative bed-rest (BO-RING). I don’t have much patience with just sitting around “getting better” so of course I decided the solution would be to cook something…and then something else….and maybe one last thing (don’t you worry, I washed my hands often and kept all my germs to myself). So, I bake myself into a tizzy and then need to find a way to dispose of it all…good thing I still have my appetite! It started with a delicious adaptation of this cauliflower soup (minus the cheese sauce) topped with crispy bacon and served with grilled cheese. Then it was homemade shortbread…don’t judge me…I have a very reasonable explanation…I needed to test the recipe before the Christmas baking extravaganza and see if the toaster oven will cooperate (it did…test complete). And finally, bagels. Rather spontaneously inspired by 1) the amazing 17-year old dynamo behind The Sophisticated Gourmet and 2) a conversation with a colleague about how hard bagels are to find in Kathmandu (I agreed with him until I produced a perfect 8 bagels on the first try…take that Kathmandu…not so hard to find after all!). Being sick isn’t so bad…oh wait…yes, yes it is…all that baking was just a clever distraction from the head cold. Ouch…time to take a nap.

Marigolds. This time of year is an explosion of natural colour all around the city. But the brightest and most perky of all the blooms are the cheerful and holy marigolds. They bloom from every roof terrace, balcony, and doorway. They are the flowers that make up the ceremonial garlands for honouring people, they are sprinkled over heads as a blessing, and are strung in great long chains over the tops of almost every entrance way in Nepal. The door chains are a good luck practice and they are only replaced once a year during the Dashain and Tihar festivals. They are hopeful flowers, standing tall and eager, to greet me each morning on my walk to work. I love this greeting and will sincerely miss their cheerful vibrant colours when I return to the land of grey skys and rain. I might just have to source myself some indoor pots in fact – it can no longer be Fall without marigolds. Plus, added bonus, they are a natural mosquito repellent!

Roasted peanuts in the shell. On a hot afternoon this week Sujata and I dashed out to run some office errands. Along the way back we stopped at one of the street fruit stalls for a snack. New to the table was a big pile of freshly roasted, still in their shell peanuts. Sujata bought a large newspaper-cone full for us to share. As we wandered back to the office and munched on our peanuts I got the full details of how to crack and eat these little gems. I discovered that Nepali wisdom (or maybe myth is a better word for it) insists that peanuts only be eaten in the cold months due to their “heaviness in the stomach” AND that you should not drink water right after eating them or they will give you a stomach ache AND they rare meant to be a social snack, shared with a group of people sitting in a circle in the full afternoon sun, not at other times of day. So many rules for the humble peanut! I followed all the rules and thoroughly enjoyed the whole nutty experience 🙂

City Park. In the centre of Kathmandu is a large and full enclosed field. In monsoon it is a green oasis of grassy space. In the dry season it is brown and dusty, reminiscent of a vacant lot. Open and free space in Kathmandu is hard to find. So much green space is hidden behind tall and well bricked walls. But this park in the middle of the city provides much needed space for any citizen to take a moment and soak up the last sunny rays over a picnic, play a pick-up game of cricket or soccer, take a quick jog around the dusty track, or (if you are up early enough) partake in a public yoga class. It reminds me of the traditional form of the commons, a space belonging to everyone. It isn’t as pretty as you would imagine most city parks to be, often overgrown and the barbed wire fencing at the entrance looks rather menacing. But at sunrise and sunset, as I make my way back and forth to work, I appreciate just how this small piece of public space is so important for so many Kathmandu residents.

Photos that speak. After slowly sifting through the photos from our 4 week vacation with family I came to the realization that there are some images that simply capture the feeling of a place, the emotion of the moment, or just the essence of the experience. In fact, they are such a strong memory that they deserve their own note of appreciation and gratitude. So, here is a selection of photos, taken during our trip, that I believe you will hear speak (with my captions, just in case you want to know what they said to me). Credits to R and my parents who took the majority of these stunning shots.