Author Archives: Tlell Elviss

Honouring Fridays: May 15th, 2009

Sick sucks.  But sick also gives a weary brain some rest.  Perhaps sick is actually a physical manifestation of a psychological need to not think.  So, I was sick this week with a flu but in retrospect I think it was that my brain was sick of working overtime trying to understand, solve, and communicate.  So, I called in sick for 2 days and voila!  Distance from the problems and worries gave me new clarity and a renewed spirit to deal with them.

  • Bananagrams.  One of our fellow volunteers has helped to cultivate an absolute ADDICTION to this simple, scrabble-like game.  We have taken to having rotating dinner parties at our houses and ending the evening with a “bunch” of  bananagrams games (if you thought that pun was bad, just wait till you see the bananagrams game vocabulary…split, peel…smoothie!).  If you have a love of word games I highly suggest picking this up.  Great for groups of 2-8.
  • The return of good friends.  Many of the volunteers who arrived in Nepal with us have since disappeared to their often far-flung placement locations.  Next week we have our annual 3-day volunteer conference.  An opportunity for learning, sharing, and thinking.  But also an opportunity to reconnect with those dear friends who we just don’t get to see enough of these days.
  • Egg salad. You either love it or hate it.  I love it.  And after such a successful tuna discovery last week I realized that egg salad was completely within the realm of possibility!  With power increases it is finally safe to have mayonnaise in the fridge and eggs are a regular staple of the diet here.  Freshly made with a hint of Dijon, slathered on whole wheat toast, topped with lots of pepper and a couple generous slices of tomato made the perfect lunch!  And if you are an egg salad hater (although I do remember that at most UBC meetings, when lunch was included, the egg salad was the first to disappear!) I implore you to give it another chance – zesty, filling, and wholesome.
  • Deciding. No waffling.  No hesitating.  Just full, unbridled, unquestionable commitment.  Better when said aloud to someone who can hold you fully accountable.   Carpe diem in action!

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The mental cycles of development work

have hope

see bright future

doubt said bright future is possible

lose hope

lose belief in self

lose belief in other people

see shimmer of possibility

remember why this work is important

feel momentarily inspired

be crushed by the politics and self-interest of others

realize your assumptions were all wrong

have one great meaning or meaningful conversation

have hope…

Honouring Fridays: May 8th, 2009

This week contained an incredible amount of change for Nepal, with the resignation of the Prime Minister, amidst some of the most complicated accusations and juicy political scandal imaginable.  Videos circulating of lies the previous PM told the UN, unconstitutional moves by various individuals that have been called `illegal`, and a `constitutional coup`.  And while the rumour mills and gossip chains are on fire with chatter, the rest of life rolls along, as it must.  The regular folks (and that includes me) got up and went to work, drank their tea, made dinner, and tried with all their might to hope that stability and peace would succeed.

  • Packages. R`s mom sent us a lovely package that arrived early this week.  The anticipation of opening them, the secret treats that are hidden inside, the carefully wrapped and addressed box…packages are a treat (cards and letters are just as wonderful!) that we dearly look forward to.  It is true that we can get just about anything we need here, but there is still something lovely about knowing that someone somewhere thought enough about you to drop something in the mail.
  • uTorrent. The source for my regular fix of bad yet totally addictive TV.  Until now, our power situation was too dire to even consider downloading anything remotely large.  But lately, we have been the recipients of magical power that stays on for…gasp…DAYS…at a time!!!  Which has meant some quality utorrent downloading. I am slowly finding my way back to the centre of pop culture.
  • Courage. I am currently wading through some rather intense and unfortunate group politics in my work that has had me questioning not only myself, but the worth, value, and possibility that the work we do can actually change education for children.  I was reminded yesterday that there are so many Nepalis who have been fighting this same fight for their entire lives – demanding that Dalit members of their society have the same rights, opportunities, and access to quality of life that caste based discrimination has prevented them from having.  While I struggle to keep faith in humanity, my Dalit colleagues can look at this and see it simply, as one more challenge to be overcome. My emotions still get the better of me, my hope and faith slowly drains, and I know that my courage is only a sliver compared to the courageous folks who live with this every single day of their lives.  I am grateful that they feel the courage to keep on fighting the good fight.
  • Tuna. We have once again discovered the joys of canned tuna.  I know, not much of a discovery, but I had somehow forgotten how delicious a tuna sandwich, rich with mayonnaise and studded with sour little pickle bites could be.  How much it reminded me of home.  Part of this discovery was also the holy grail of a good tuna sandwich…good bread.  A local hotel makes fresh french bread – toasted and smothered with tuna and cheese brought us right back to home.  Mitho thiyo!  (It was tasty!).

a short history lesson

To help understand the political history of Nepal, which in some ways can help put the recent events into some perspective, I recommend this neat and tidy little timeline from the BBC.  And while it is much more complex than this timeline shows, it does highlight just how long these struggles have been happening and just how fragile a state Nepal truly is.  It looks very much like a cyclical, revolving, and regularly changing political system which could explain why it has taken so long to get a firm set of laws and policies in place….the direction keeps changing!

Follow the leader…unless he resigns!

It has been a month full of political maneuvering and an notable air of tension as the government has slowly unraveled for the past week in Nepal.

The root issue: whether or not the Chief of the Nepal Army should be fired. He is said to have obstructed the process of integrating the Maoist rebel fighters into the regular army, stating that they are not suitable for the posts. He was fired yesterday by the Prime Minister (the highest government post in Nepal) amid protests from the opposition parties.

Following that 16 Ministers resigned due to the firing. Then, late last night, the President (second in command to the Prime Minister) reinstated the Army Chief, saying that the removal of the Chief is unconstitutional. A curfew was initiated to keep the protests to a minimum.  Then, this morning, the legal experts tell everyone that the firing and rehiring moves of BOTH the PM and the President are unconstitutional…uh oh…so all day we have been waiting to hear what would happen. Lots of meetings, lots of boycotting of meetings, lots of protests, lots of rumours.

The PM was scheduled to address the nation today at 3pm and with that televised broadcast…he resigned, stating that the various factions in government are not allowing him to govern the country smoothly and saying the resignation was a move to protect democracy!

So Nepal is now PM-less and the various youth factions are rioting, either in support of the resignation (in short they are celebrating the decision) or in anger that the Maoist leader has stepped down. Basically, an uncertain few days ahead as the country sorts out what this will all mean…

For more details have a look at:

I will do my best to keep everyone posted, but this certainly will impact the ongoing quest for peace and justice in Nepal.

Honouring Fridays: May 1st, 2009

I was reading back through some of my old blog posts and realized that I don’t talk as much about my work as I would like to.  Perhaps I have difficulty putting into words what I do here or perhaps it is just the last thing I feel like thinking about after a long and busy week…so this week, some things I am grateful for at work, to hopefully share a bit more what exactly I am doing

  • Focused advocacy plans. Our coalition had a planning meeting this week and has FINALLY narrowed their focus down to some tangible, measurable, and achievable demands around advocacy.  It is all well and good to want to demand high quality education for all students, but to whom do you make your demands?  And how will you know when they have been met?  And what does quality education really mean?  So, we spent a day focusing our demands.  We want…1) The Nepal Government to allocate 20% of the national budget to education (currently 16.53% comes out way), 2) Funds to flow more quickly to the school level (there are currently about 25 steps for money to reach schools so it takes forever to get there), 3) Proper use and allocation of funds at the school level, 4) Establishment of a national constitutional body through which all teachers are hired, 5) Better governance at the school level. It is satisfying to know that we are capable of these kinds of demands…let’s just hope that we can actually do some of these things!
  • Hiring great, passionate, and intelligent people. This week we also completed the hiring process for GCE Nepal’s first full-time staff member, a Coordinator.  We had outstanding applications, a great interview team, a transparent and ethical recruitment and selection process, and what I think will be an incredibly talented individual who I will enjoy working with immensely.  Much like hiring students at universities – a great colleague can make all the difference.
  • Having more questions than answers. It is always the case that when you are new to any organization, you should spend more time asking questions than answering them.  AND, the wonderful thing about being able to ask lots of questions is that you can push thinking further.  I don’t always plan to challenge how things work, but in my efforts to understand for my own learning, my questions prompt discussions that might not otherwise happen.  Take, for example, a simple question about how GCE Nepal communicates with their members.  I wanted to understand how the Steering Committee shares information.  What I discovered is that nobody had really ever considered this before.  A good question can be one of the best tools for learning but it can also be one of the best tools for getting work started…
  • Gaining the trust and confidence of colleagues. If I think of what I knew about my work 5 months ago, 4 months ago, 3 months ago, 2 months ago, or 1 month ago I can see how the depth has changed but also how I get my information has changed.  Those I work with are much more open and willing to be honest about where our coalition struggles.  I have real conversations…finally!  It took time to sift through the information, opinions, perspectives, and glossy descriptions of our work.  To weigh, measure, test, clarify, and analyze all this information takes time…slowly, slowly, slowly.  But eventually I got a complete picture of the reality.  And then, I began to have real conversations.

Honouring Fridays: April 24th, 2009

It was a frustrating week.   It was one of those weeks that crush the spirit, drink your energy for breakfast, and then spend the rest of the day hammering away at any sense of confidence, understanding and intellect that you might have left.  The smallest tasks seem daunting and the thought of climbing out of bed each morning is exhausting.

I will be the first to admit that I do try to keep these kinds of days to the minority – I hate feeling this way and hate living this way.  But I also know that some great self-indulgent and self-focused care can ease even the worst week into nothing.

So to indulge myself this week I will endeavour to honour those things that this week did NOT go wrong, did NOT make me feel like a puddle of sludge, and did NOT cause me to throw my hands up in despair…

  • Mosquito nets.  In Kathmandu there are mosquitoes…not as many as in many places in the world and not of the malarial persuasion but still…they are a pesky and annoying addition to any dark and sleepy bedroom.  The constant buzzing, the surprise attacks just as you drift off the sleep, and the lovely red welts that decorate any exposed skin the next morning.  So, we bought a net for our bed.  With a few simple ropes we have now gently encased ourselves in a cozy haven, swaths of white netting romantically draping from the ceiling.  Aside from the intense and rather toxic chemical which make these nets killing machines, they are rather lovely and romantic.  And I haven’t heard a “bzzzzzzzzz” in at least a week.
  • Emergency drills, while tedious, help couples communicate.  This week VSO Nepal undertook their annual security drill.  A scenario is sent from London in the morning and offices need to practice their emergency procedures.  This year the scenario necessitated the evacuation of all VSO volunteers.  Through my work in the VSO Office, I was helping to contact the Education volunteers about evacuation procedures but also took the opportunity to contact myself and ask myself to evacuate.  Meanwhile, at the same time, Rex was being contacted about his evacuation procedures.  Except, he was given two options: 1) have VSO fly you back to your home country or 2) have VSO  give you the money for such flight but instead take a vacation.  So, in the case of an emergency evacuation, Rex will have chosen to vacation in Thailand and I will be back in Canada…whoops…good thing we sorted that one out before an actual emergency!
  • Gin.  and tonic. By Thursday, I had reached what I would call a gin and tonic crisis.  Hard to go wrong here…dependable and solid it made a mockery of my silly week and reminded me that sometimes the best medicines do come in a glass with a squeeze of lime.  Good thing that
  • …Friday was a holiday.  One less day for things to go wrong and the only day this week that found me eating pancakes, relaxing in a pool, and recharging the internal battery.

An opinion on the status of development work in Nepal

I heard a statistic the other day that there were over 33,000 registered NGO’s and INGO’s in Nepal – some active and some not, but still…a very large number of folks committed, in theory, to some kind of social change. 

After the past 5 months of listening, observing, understanding, and trying to make sense of it all, I must admit that I am stumped.  I am utterly confused about what the purpose of all these agencies truly is. And let me speak, somewhat more in turn here for a minute, within the boundaries of my work. 

I have read and digested countless statistics about access and quality of education in Nepal…bleak, bleak, and bleaker.  We still have about 30% of children not enrolled in school – and of course this number does not include the number of enrolled children who are technically “on the roster” but who just don’t come to school because they are working in brick factories, have a disability that prevents them from attending school, are HIV positive, or face discrimination in the classroom because of all the above OR because of their caste, gender, or the fact that they speak their own indigenous language.

Within that 30%, the proportion of children from these excluded groups is grossly over represented compared to population numbers (and even the population numbers are skewed as the last census was done in 2001…).

So, who should be held accountable?  Is it the government, who has been focused on waging a civil war for the past 10 years?  The donor agencies who try to solve every problem with money?  The community members, who have neither time nor energy to demand for much as they struggle to feed families and stay alive?  Or the thousands of NGOs and INGOs who seem to tackle every problem in isolation…never considering for a moment that perhaps a better approach would be to pool energy and resources and collaborate.

Nepal is a country of where inaction is so common that people have been paralysed by the influx and proliferation of development agencies.  The more NGOs and INGOs we can pack into this teeny country, the less responsibility we can demand from those who are truly responsible and the more chaotic, splintered and less cohesive are the voices of those who really matter.  

I realize that there are limitations to centralization of services and government intervention but I feel compelled to argue that I actually think we have entered into a state of dependency here.  Everyone has their own organizational or individual mission statements that inhibit the genuine work of helping people…and that is not even speaking of how this inhibits the possibility of any form of collaboration.  The only way to manage the collaboration is to work through a government system where they can collect, collate, and coordinate development efforts.

Instead what we have now is what I imagine must graphically look something like the work of a leaf blower: a few scattered piles that are tossed to the air at the first hint of a breeze, not for a moment likely to stay on course and land together at the same destination. 

It has become a development industry…a business in which people can secure a job as long as some blind-folded donor agency is willing to hand over the cash.  We know that talk is cheap here – it doesn’t matter what is promised or by whom – it is the action that is still missing. 

And yet, I can rant and rave about where I see development work faltering, but I cannot, for a moment, imagine how families and children who depend on development work for support would be impacted if it all ended.

We need leadership, vision, and action from government.  It can be certain that if the government direction is strong, ethical, and humane the INGOs, NGOs, and donors will be compelled to follow…

Happy Early Earth Day!

Happy early Earth Day!  Although two days early I wanted to be sure I didn’t forget.

In fact, I think we have been really celebrating Earth Day for the past 5 months, decreasing our energy consumption (we don’t really have a choice here!), water consumption, and food consumption…basically reducing our consumption…of everything (except for maybe rice and pirated DVDs…consumption on those has definitely gone up!).  We are living by the seasons which dictates so much of life here.

Seasons here are marked properly, in the agricultural tradition of seasonal cycles of fruits and vegetables.  It makes me laugh now to think how “novel” this idea has become at home.  We were full fledged participants of local and seasonal eating habits back in Vancouver and of course I knew it wasn’t a new idea.  Much of my childhood was spent in summer eating only food from the family garden and in winter devouring all that freshness through home canning and preserving.  However, when I returned to this idea as a young adult it was different – it was more glamorous to eat locally, more trendy to know a farmer, and more fancy-pants to consider your food miles before tucking in to a nice meal.

I had been fooled.  Local eating is one of the least fancy and least trendy habits of most of the world.  In Kathmandu, gardens pop up between apartments, appear from behind office buildings, or can be found hidden down the most unsuspecting alleyway.  In fact, I would bet that MOST of my fruits and vegetables come from within a 20 kilometer circumference.   And those that come from outside that distance come from our neighbouring country, India…eating locally is economically sustainable to most people here and provides the majority livelihood for the majority of Nepali citizens.  And the best part is that long-distance, imported options in the produce department simply are not available!  Here, eating locally is a real, humble, and humane act of necessity!

Tonight we are celebrating the fact that we have just moved through orange and lime season (from about November to February) and are moving into mango season!  But the best part is this is just phase one of at least a four-phase mango season.  Four distinct varieties will grace our plates this monsoon from now until about August and I look forward to trying them all – in lassis, curry, on yogurt, in muesli, slathered on toast, dipped in local coconut shreds, or drizzled with honey 🙂

So, our first crack at a cooked mango recipe was an adaptation of this delectable mango loaf.  Compliments to Rachelle S. who posted the recipe – I have shown my adapted version below for your perusal.  And I must admit that I hesitated to share it since I know that the majority of you DO NOT live in local mango growing areas…hmmm ethical dilemma.  So, I share it with you and trust that you will use it sparingly and in good conscience and wherever possible source your own local produce, not because it is trendy or cool, but because it is one of the nicest things you can do for the planet.

3 cups flour
1 cup sugar
3 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
2 eggs
1 cup oil
1 cup diced mango (about 2 medium mangos)

Preheat oven to 400F. Grease & flour loaf pan. In large bowl, sift flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Stir in milk, eggs, and butter. Mix until flour is just incorporated. Do not over mix. Gently stir in mangos. Pour the batter into the pan and bake for 40 minutes.

Makes 1 loaf.

Honoring Fridays: April 17th, 2009

Where to begin!  Last weekend we had a spectacular trip to Pokhara which has a spectacular location on Lake Fewa, nestled into the “hills” (read large incredible mountains which to the locals are nothing in comparison to the Himalayas but to everyone else are fully mountains).  It was our anniversary trip so we kept it totally unscheduled and just enjoyed the spontaneity and indulgence of it all.  Without a doubt the best part was the swimming pool – with temperatures hovering around a humid 30 degrees C, there was nothing more refreshing than spending the day in the pool.  Now for my weekly dose of gratitude…

  • Planning(as I call it)/Dreaming (as he calls it). Many of our conversations during the weekend centred around what the next year might bring – dreaming about the future and just what we imagined and hoped for ourselves and each other.  There is something utterly thrilling to think ahead to what is possible and let the mind race ahead a bit.  The risk, of course, is that present time is less appreciated, less thoughtfull spent, and less enjoyed.  However, we indulged and just dreamed about what might be…it was hopeful, inspired, and energizing…thanks to Pokhara for inspiring our next dreams.
  • Sweet chili sauce. Condiment of the gods, sweet chili sauce is one of the few condiments in our fridge (currently soya sauce, dijon mustard, butter, and sweet chili sauce are actually all that are in our fridge at all…we are confident that when the power is out they are “tough enough” to withstand some subtle warming without turning into poison).  What I do recommend is sweet chili sauce on friend rice.  Delectably spicy and sweet at the same time with the nice firm crunch of vegetables.  Better, in fact, than the traditional soya sauce.  Not at all Nepali in any way but cheap and tasty nonetheless.
  • Summer fabrics. With the onset of hot weather the prospect of shopping has once again popped into possibility.  Exceptionally cheap and perfect for hot weather is fantastic linens, cottons of every colour, hue, pattern, design and combination of emrboidery, sparkly sequins, or complex hand painting.  I will admit that the clothes I brought from home are no longer suitable for this weather – they are sticky, heavy, and these days at least 3 sizes too big.  That means a trip to my local tailor for something new…yipppee!
  • New load shedding schedules. All I can say is we are down from 19 hours a day to 12…it almost feels luxurious and decadent…its not…but it still feels like it, so while the euphoria lasts I am going to enjoy it.