Category Archives: Feelings

Honouring Fridays: October 23rd, 2009

As many people may have heard, my grandmother died last week. She was in her late 90’s and still managed to go for a swim everyday in Lake Okanagan, knit woolly booties for the new babies at the hospital, and spend as much time as possible with her family. Back in the day she was a talented figure skater, a baker of the most delicious fudge, and a practical joker of the highest degree. She took pleasure in stuffing home knitted socks with jaw-breaker candies as big as my head (at least they felt that big when my 10 year old eyes watched my Dad pull them out of his new socks on Christmas morning) and she could always be counted on for warm hugs, a great game of rummy (she cheated, but we all let her), and some laughs – she was always laughing.

Grandma Frances. So, this week I am the most grateful for my grandmother and the wonderful life that she was able to live. I can only hope that I have inherited an ounce of your kindness, a funny bone or two and perhaps a drop or two of your delicious fudge-making talents too 🙂 We love you and will miss you Grandma.

Ginger tea. During our 5-day trek in the hills and mountains, after climbing for 4-5 hours, we would reach the guest house exhausted and hungry. Dinner would usually be some warm and filling potato or egg dish but what we all looked forward to more than dinner was the steaming pot of ginger tea at the end of the meal. It was quite simple – black tea with fresh, chopped ginger and a splash of honey dumped into the pot. No infusion of ginger essence or synthetic ginger flavouring, just real fresh gingery hot tea. It was a warm hug before bed, a muscle rejuvinator before the next day of hiking, a chance to reconnect with family about how the day went, and a moment of calm, full-belly, peacefulness. I plan on making this concoction throughout the cold months here in Nepal to ward off H1N1, common colds, chest infections, and stomach irritations – even if it doesn’t work it will still bring me back to the cool crisp evenings in Nepal’s mountains sitting with family and sharing a wonderful pot of tea.
Rotisserie chicken. While my parents were visiting earlier this month we made a wonderful discovery. The small and unassuming toaster oven that graces my counter is also a rotisserie! In preparations for a small Thanksgiving dinner we had planned to roast a chicken in the toaster oven. I found some odd spear and dagger like instruments in the cupboard and starting putting the pieces together. On inspection of the oven, we discovered that lo and behold, the large spear-like apparatus rotates! AHA! Spear the bird, slap it on the rotating device and voila – rotisserie chicken – a zillion times better than any Swiss Chalet affair and truly Thanksgiving worthy. You can rest assured that we will be re-enacting this magical moment for Christmas dinner as well 🙂

Rekindling a love affair. Despite the fact that I sometimes take you for granted, I am reminded just how appreciative I am to have you. The sweetness of reconnecting feels good. It is also especially good when the object of affection is so steady, familiar, and altogether unchanging. When it can feel like you were never apart. And so I have rekindled my love affair. You keep me connected, give me entertainment, and suffer as pound out my weekly installments of gratitude and yet never have I once shown any appreciation for you…the tool. You may have lost the ability to hold any charge in your battery due to random power surges but you will always have my undying affection.

Honouring Fridays: September 11th, 2009

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Well folks, this is the beginning of the end. The beginning of my vacation (well, almost) and the end of working like a maniac…for a whole 4 weeks! We look forward to greeting my parents at the airport on Tuesday night and embarking on a trip to Pokhara, a short mountain trek, a bunch of small day trips around Kathmandu, and then a 9 day trip around Rajasthan in India. And with this adventure comes the great need to disconnect from my life in Kathmandu…just enough to clear the mind and rejuvenate the spirit.

So, this will be my final Friday gratitude post for the next 4 weeks. I may post some photos of our trip or the odd note during this time but will return in earnest with my weekly musings on things I am grateful for on Friday, October 16th. Until then enjoy the beginning of Fall – bake an apple crisp, buy a new sweater, and crush some dry leaves underfoot.

XMind. On two instances over the past month I have needed to pull together a partnership map to show the connections between various stakeholders, community groups, partners, government, donors and volunteers. In non-development speak this is really just a complex organizational diagram that shows how any involved is connected to anyone else involved. After fiddling for some time with the PowerPoint org chart functions I quickly realized they were much too hierarchical for our holistic approach. So, off to the web to find something better (and free, and open source…of course!). Enter XMind, a great tool for mind-mapping of the complex and chaotic variety. Here is an example of what I was able to do.
Dhaka topi. I have been taking more notice lately of the tradition Nepali caps that men here wear. Topi ithe general word for hat and dhaka is the cloth used to make traditional Nepali mens wear. When used together they refer to the hat worn when wearing the dhaka clothes. They are jaunty, colourful, and rather charming. Somehow, they remind me of time passed – I imagine what Kathmandu might have looked like years ago, with bikes being the main mode of transport, when colourful dhaka topis topped the head of every man riding a bike…it must have looked something like this.
Sel roti. Sel roti looks like a large skinny donut. It is a sweetened rice flour bread that is deep fried and eaten with Nepali tea or with a snack of curried chick peas. I ate my first sel roti last week as they are a common snack around festival time. I have not yet had the guts to try and make them but if you want to give it a go, here is a good recipe. The slight crunch of the ground rice bits gives the texture of cornmeal and the sweet dough with the slight hint of banana flavour all drenched in a crispy greasy crust…delicious!
The right amount of time. Enough time to appreciate, notice, and enjoy what is around you. Not so much time that you feel stuck and stagnant. Enough time to soak it all in. Not so much time to feel you might never make it to the end. Enough time to feel powerfully connected. Not so much time that powerful connections turn into resentful relationships. Just the exact right amount of time when everything makes sense.

Honouring Fridays: September 4th, 2009

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The countdown to September 15th has kicked into full gear! The excitement of 4 weeks of vacation combined with visitors from home arriving on that day is making the days fly by. Plus September and October hold the biggest Hindu festivals (akin to Christmas in Christian countries). First is Dashain which is a large, 10-day, family celebration with lots of sacrifices, meat eating, dancing, singing, and returning to home villages to give prayers and offerings to family members. Then about 2 weeks later is Tihar (like Diwali in India) the festival of light. So, lots of joy and celebration ahead has left me feeling incredibly grateful this week – the cup runneth over with goodness, prosperity, and happiness!

Pants with no holes. Such simple pleasures really. After toting some rather tired-looking clothes to Nepal, hoping that they would wear themselves out while here, I discovered that they listened. But only in the form of large holes in the crotch (too much information? sorry), while the rest of the fabric is like new! Ordinarily, I would just buy myself a new pairs of pants, but when your entire 4-pair pants wardrobe is in cahoots and decides to commit collective suicide and to reveal your bits to the world, it means war. So, those old pants got a new lease on life this week thanks to a neighbourhood tailor. After trying about 6 different shops and getting full belly laughs from the proprietors about my large-thigh problem, I finally found a man who was willing to help. Granted, he and his friend spent a good ten minutes exclaiming and laughing to each other about how fat I was, but finally he agreed to help. The solution, while not perfect but absolutely acceptable, was to cut about 3 inches of length from the cuffs and use those two pieces to sandwich the weak fabric in the middle. So, 4 days later and they are as good as new…we will just overlook the fact that my entire pants wardrobe is now an awkward mid-ankle crop…
Cinnamon rolls. I inherited a big jar of yeast from a friend who was moving back to Canada from Nepal (Hi Anne! Say hello to Vancouver for us!), along with a great big bag of walnuts and an almost full can of dark Canadian maple syrup (and many many other lovely kitchen items…I am also grateful for hand-me-downs!). Inspired to bake something that reminded me of home, I quickly decided on the comforting yeasty-ness of cinnamon rolls. When I was younger my mom would sometimes get up very early and bake us fresh cinnamon buns before school…such a treat (I also remember the homemade elviss mcmuffins…real cheddar, English muffins, egg…my absolute favourite!). The husband loved them – he ate most of them in fact – and the maple walnut crunch with cinnamon was delicious! The bun recipe was an adaptation of The Pioneer Woman’s but instead of the maple glaze on top I slathered inside butter, maple syrup, and cinnamon. It may not feel like Fall here but it sure did taste like it!
Money. The pain was all worth it. I received word this week that the National Campaign for Education, Nepal (NCE Nepal) with whom I am working, has been approved for a rather large sum of money for this year and two more years funding contingent on success this year. It amounts to about $100,000 USD, in Nepali rupees is close to 7,769,999.69 NPR. To put this into context the majority of Nepali families in villages live on 3000-4000 NPR or less per month…this is BIG money! The proposal writing process was probably one of the most painful and exhausting times I have had here in Nepal but I couldn’t be happier that at least it was all worth it. This will be enough to hire two more staff and do some really exciting work on education advocacy including research, policy advocacy, and setting up regional advocacy networks. So, it is an exciting and wealthy time for NCE Nepal. It makes me slightly sad to be leaving and unable to see the implementation of all these great ideas. But it leaves them in a good spot…all I can do now is hope they use it effectively and ethically.
English translation errors. Last weekend we went up to near the Tibetan border to stay at a lovely resort called Last Resort. A beautiful and peaceful place to recharge the internal battery and refocus on what is inspiring about Nepal. We enjoyed the company of good friends, good food, and adventure! But I also enjoyed this – almost more than anything…I am still chuckling about it actually. 🙂 Whoops! Just a bit more space needed between the first 2 options and the last option, unless of course vegetarian is in fact a new gender! And I was thinking that this would be a good submission to Engrish.

Honouring Fridays: August 14th, 2009

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Last night I awoke to the most spectacular rainstorm we have had yet. It sounded like rivers streaming from the sky and drowned out any other sounds. I laid still for about half and hour and just listened to the sound, carefully looking for a change in pace, water volume, or drop intensity. Straining to hear, you could make out the sounds of the rain falling on different objects – the banana trees in the yard were lashed and submissive, the leaves being torn by the heavy drops, the rhythmic thudding of the balcony downspout on the pavement 3 stories down, and the metallic spring of drops bouncing vigorously off the tin roof over the carport. All these rains sounds wove together to create a cocoon inside our mosquito net – at that moment there was nowhere more secure, cozy or peaceful to be.

The countdown. It is literally one month until we embark on a 4-week vacation that feels like it just can’t come at a better time. The 4 weeks will be blissfully free from work and allow me to remember just how amazing Nepal has been. So, forgive me, while I not so silently jump for joy each morning when I look at my countdown clock on my Google homepage and see the numbers ticking down…such power those little numbers hold…I may not be living as directly in the moment as I may like, but I sure as heck have lots to look forward to!

Finding the lesson, despite how deeply it might be buried. With enough distance from my stressful and rather confidence defeating past weeks, I have had enough time to gather my wits and regain perspective. And buried near the centre of all the junk is what I like to call the kernel of wisdom. My kernel from the last weeks has been: don’t assume that lack of interest is equivalent to lack of caring.

The smell of fresh guava. Not the prettiest of fruit but certainly the most intriguing. Walking down a muddy alley in Kathmandu I could smell what seemed like a some rich and luxurious Parisian perfume – heady top notes of super sweet and fragrant fruit – like a strawberry married a pineapple. Much to my suprise the smell was wafting from a precarious looking basket of rumpled yellow-green fruit. The guava season had arrived by smell alone. They are not the most delicious of fruits – in fact I would discourage you from going out of your way to find them for their taste value. Oh, but the smell…the smell alone is reason to seek them out. They permeate our entire apartment with their fruity, flowery, and steamy scent. They smell like seduction, passion, and intrigue. I think small animals, insects, and birds must be seduced by them too – it is a bewitching fruit. I have since used them to make a rather perfumed sauce with honey and a raspberry tea bag which I hope to serve this weekend with a chocolate cake. And true to Nepal, the fruit seasons just keeping bringing the most delightful surprises – wistful goodbyes to mangoes – flared nostril hellos to guavas! And it probably wouldn’t surprise you to know that guava essence is a central ingredient in many perfumes too!

Cooking my way to good mental health. There is a term in our house that R and I use, particularly on weekends, when I emerge from a state of intense cookery…we call it the food coma. Sometimes it is induced by eating all the fruits of my kitchen labours, but other times it it simply the coma from channeling every last drop of creativity and soul into making something tasty. But I actually do believe that cooking has become an important mode of expression for me. An outlet from some frustration, a chance to capture feelings on a plate. Nothing better than expressing myself and ending up with a delicious plate of food at the end of it.

Honouring Fridays: August 7th, 2009

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I hear it is hot in Vancouver. Hotter than what would be considered usual for this time of year. And while I can sympathize with those West Coasters who are just not genetically engineered for this heat (and I feel absolutely terrible about the forest fires that are raging…they were actually featured in photo on the cover of a national Nepali newspaper this week…I could hardly believe my eyes)…but I digress. I just wanted to toss out a quick reminder that your version of hot is mild. Yesterday, I walked to work and by the time I arrived my shirt was actually soaking with sweat…and I mean SOAKING..dripping…could be wrung out with enough sweat to brew a cup of tea…gross. And there is no cool refereshing lakes, rivers or oceans…just large seas of rice paddies. In some of the southern areas of Nepal near the Indian border the temperature is regularly in the 40’s for weeks. So, it is hot on the West Coast but my sympathy extends only so far…until your brewing tea with your t-shirt sweat it’s not that hot 🙂

Cold marble floors. On those days when the temperature is insanely hot one of the most cooling things I can find to do is stand (or admittedly sometimes lay) in my kitchen. Usually associated with hot, steamy, splattering foods, the kitchen in my house is actually the coolest spot around thanks to the floor to counter slabs of marble. I find that I channel almost all my excess body heat through my feet so there is nothing more comforting than soaking up the cool through one sole…which inevitably cools the other soul.

Nimbleness. One of the things that I have learned since being here is just how much I appreciate nimble organizations. The type of organization that can be quickly responsive, adaptable, flexible, and strategic – that doesn’t get bogged down by adhering to excessive, circular, and semantic conversations. I truly believe that nimbleness is possible for an organization of any size, degree of hierarchy, or type of work. It is often thought that being smaller means being more nimble, but really it is more about the implementation of organizational structure not the actual structure itself. In a dictatorship, nimble is easy – boss makes decision and can change the decision based on new information at any time. In the same way, a more participatory organization could empower those most impacted to make the decision on behalf of the group. I believe that very few organizations recognize nimbleness as a high priority but I think this will become increasingly important – to stay ahead they will need to be nimble to remain competitive.
Good communication. Good things happen when communication is good. I was reminded this week that communication takes practice, patience, and listening. Listening. Listening. Maybe speaking. Listening. And no matter how experienced or capable you are in communication there will be tests of this skill – moments when your abilities fail you and you need to find some new strategies. But as soon as you stop allowing your communication strategies to evolve, the less able you will be to communicate.
Garlic and cheese rolls. Near our house there is a wonderful Italian bakery of which we only recently started taking full advantage. They make breads, cookies, pastries and other delicious goodies. But my indulgence there is singular. In fact, I don’t think my eyes even drift further than the large tray of warm garlic and cheese rolls. They always have my full attention, the garlic winking, the cheese seductively draping itself over the wholesome multigrain goodness. For those who know me well, they could tell you just how much I love savoury breakfast. So, for breakfast, we sometimes walk over for a breakfast treat and delicious latte (next door is a little coffee roasting shop that hand grinds beans and steams milk individually for each latte…divine and the best to be found in Kathmandu I think). Below is a photo tribute to this new Saturday morning ritual.

A little piece of heaven in the form of a roll.

Honouring Fridays: July 31st, 2009

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So, I am actually rambling away on a Thursday evening writing this blog. It is the eve of my first all-nighter in Nepal. A proposal so flawed it needs its own reality TV show must be perfect by tomorrow morning. So, to warm up the writing juices getting a jump start on the blog seemed like a good idea – especially because it reminded me to be grateful, as Fridays always do. Now, with a better, healthier, and more positive outlook on this all-nighter I am going to get to it.

Naspati. Another week, another magical fruit season. New to markets these past two weeks are naspati, the ubiquitous asian pear/applepear/Pyrus pyrifolia. These round and crunchy fruits are kin to the pear and while expensive at home, come at a ridiculously affordable price here. Last weekend for our regular Saturday gathering (where I have found my niche as honoured dessert maker) I made a poached version with a few tweaks to this recipe from Marvin at Burnt Lumpia. Instead of wine I used pomegranate and grape juice to poach, meaning I skipped the additional sugar in the poaching liquid. Served cold with fresh cinnamon cream, the reduced poaching liquid, and homemade cashew and almond granola they were delicious! Perhaps if you get yourself over here in the next month I could make you some…provided they are still in season…oh who am I kidding…if they aren’t in season something else delicious will be, so get the heck over here!

Girlfriends. Hard to imagine life without the care and love of a good group of girlfriends. But this week I think I realized just how much I miss those friends who are simultaneously an adviser and empathizer. They help sort out the myriad of emotions and yet somehow manage to remain both level-headed and compassionate – feeling what you feel but not getting so deep into the crux of it that they are no longer able to help dig you out. And they know you well enough to know when to challenge or to simply agree, when to pour a glass of wine or reach for the gin and tonic, and when a little laughter is better than tears. They just know. Thank you so much to all my girlfriends who have reached out over the past week with emails, snail mail, packages, and good thoughts. It was just the love I needed this week.
Knowing that I still have lots to learn. I guess this is not a new revelation. No thunder crashed or lightening flashed when I told myself this afternoon that I still have so much to learn. Because I actually don’t think this state of mind ever really changes. I always think I have much to learn, but the harder part is being grateful for it. It isn’t about being young or old, schooled or unschooled, experienced or unexperienced – it is about curiousity – about retaining that curiousity when you are learning something you maybe don’t want to learn. And that is something I still have to learn…to appreciate the lessons that are the hardest to appreciate.
Randomwebsitegenerator. Sometimes I need inspiration. And I read this article just the other day that suggested using randomly generate websites to inspire solutions to problems (they called them probortunities…don’t even get me started!). And I remembered a number of years ago this website that helped generate random URLs. So I tried it and found inspiration here, and here, and here, and here…places I may never have found otherwise if it wasn’t for my trusty randomwebsitegenerator friend. Thanks for the randomness friend!

Fear.

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waiting just below the surface, it simmers

burping and belching malice, deceit, and mistrust

we all know you are there and you know we are waiting

the vibrations of daily life continue but your infections fester with discontent

it is power that manipulates you, twists you, sharpens you

they choke on their hope and drown in their patience

and their fear will continue to simmer.

Honouring Fridays: July 24th, 2009

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Last weekend we took a fantastic day-trip hiking along the edge of the hills that surround the Kathmandu Valley. Spectacular views, excellent company, incredible Buddhist monasteries, and some much needed peace were the highlights. The single low-light: the most crowded and painful microbus ride through almost knee deep monsoon puddles after waiting for 45 minutes. It was totally worth the pain but clearly I need some practice on the whole Buddhist zen…the following conversation occurred between me and my brain during said painful micro ride:

Breathe in deeply (except while my nose is crammed into the armpit of the guy in front of me).

Breathe out deeply (and hope that guy in front of me doesn’t mistake my excellent belly-breathing as a sexual advance).

Let all the muscles from the top of your head to the bottom of your toes just relax and release (except for the muscles that are hanging on for dear life to the roof of the 10-person microbus that is currently carrying me and 50 other people through torrential rains).

Close your eyes (but occasionally scan the rain streaked windows for any landmark that looks familiar where I can make a fast exit).

Imagine you are floating (actually, I am floating, there are so many people on this bus that they have squished me upwards for lack of space and your feet are no longer connected with the ground).

Your weight is fully supported by a gentle breeze (actually it is not a breeze but the heavy breathing of the 50 people crammed inside this small space).

Let any thoughts you have surround themselves in bubbles and float away (how do I surround every curse word I have ever known in a bubble?).

Allow yourself to drift away, slowly, gently into the state of peace (or how about I just get the heck off and find a damn taxi!).

So despite my inability to release my ego and be zen, I do have many things to be grateful for.

Bacon. Greasy and salty, crunchy and chewy, deeply savoury goodness in the form of a fried strip of pig meat. Bacon is something I rarely eat here in Nepal. But the breakfast buffet at the hotel I stayed at for a workshop this week served bacon. And I ate it. All of it. I couldn’t stop myself – I actually went for a second helping of just bacon…who does that??!!! I think it reminded me of home and filled some sort of hole in my soul. It felt almost spiritual – like some inner food-god connection had been unleashed. Perhaps if I had carried some bacon on the micro with me the conversation above would be different. Don’t you worry bacon…we will have a rendezvous again soon, although this time I might just arm myself with some lettuce and tomato. Until then, I will keep you in my thoughts here.
I am grateful for realizing that it’s no longer my problem. We had a proposal due for funding today. It isn’t yet finished. I don’t know when it will be. We might get an extension but we might not. I poured heart and soul into helping to write this thing but couldn’t do it alone. I asked for help and nobody heard my call. I was seriously saddened and frustrated until I spoke with a good colleague, Jeevan, and he reminded me that it wasn’t my problem. I was propping up a crumbling building alone – even if I managed to stabilize one corner, it was still doomed to crumble. I did everything I could but if the building crumbles…I will be sad but it’s just no longer my problem.
Being in the right place at the right time. During our hike and monastery visits last week, just as we arrived at the final monastery, the thunder began to clap and a light rain began to fall. Almost at the exact same time a large drum began to sound inside the monastery. The Buddhist monks were being called to prayer. It was a practice of one of the traditional Tibetan chants. We were able to sneak inside and sit near the back and observe the ritual chanting. It was a beautiful combination of sounds – the booming of large drums marking a return to mindfulness, the gentle snap of fingers when a particular state of consciousness or being had been achieved and the gentle murmur of about 100 voices repeating the soft and rounded Tibetan words. With the rains outside it was the perfect place to be, without a plan and finding ourselves sitting on the edges of daily life in a monastery.
Rex. He has been trying to make it onto my blog for weeks. But I always tell him that I am ALWAYS grateful for him so don’t need to blog about it every week. But this week, I am more grateful for him than usual. He has been away in Hetauda and I am always reminded, when he is gone, just how much support, love, kindness, patience, laughter, and joy he brings to my life. You made the blog sweetie – now get on that crowded smelly microbus and come home soon!

Honouring Fridays: July 17th, 2009

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This week was difficult. A couple of experiences reminded me just how much distance remains in moving to a place where everyone has enough to eat, a warm bed, and the ability to have a small degree of choice in their own destiny. I recently read a great quote in a book, The People’s Act of Love, about what those who have never really suffered think when looking at those living in poverty. “And you thought: they’re used to it. But that was how those who suffered less always thought about those who suffered more, that they were used to it, that they no longer felt it as you did. Nobody ever got used to it. All they learned to do was to stop letting it show.” This week, I looked more closely at people around me and realized the truth of this statement. Nobody here is truly adjusted to being poor – they are just very good at disguising how it makes them feel. It can feel overwhelming and impossible to imagine how we can help millions and millions of people escape the cycles of poverty – dauntingly huge and terribly important. So this week I am reminded just how grateful I am for the basic essentials of life.

Having enough to eat. Many of the remote Districts in Nepal are facing a drastic food shortage this year. The late monsoon, still only barely having dampened the soil, will drastically reduce production and those who are subsistence farmers, producing only enough food to feed their families, will risk starvation. Land fertility is also decreasing due to increased use of harsh chemical fertlizers. It is easy to feel very distant from such basic needs when shelves are stocked high with packaged and imported foods. The “have money, will pay” philosophy wins out – those who have money will never feel the effects of going without food. It will always be those who simply cannot afford to eat anything but what they grow that will die from starvation. Our bellies are over-full. We have absolutely no reason to ever complain.
Feeling secure and safe. Recently in Kathmandu there has been a tidal wave of insecurity due to a rash of kidnappings. The fear and worry has gotten to a point where groups of citizens have taken the law into their own hands and killed people they suspected to be kidnappers only to find out that they were not. Previously, kidnappings were politically motivated and occurred between parties. But now, it seems the are more motivated by money – an easy way to extort money from wealthy families. There is nothing safe and secure about being a parent or child in Kathmandu these days. I am grateful for not feeling that my life is at risk.
My health. In the far western region of Nepal there has been a recent outbreak of rather terrible diarrhea. It started months ago but caused no alarm within the power capital of Kathmandu. It took up to a month for the government to mobilize any medical teams to address the problem. And it is now too late. They are assuming that it is a result of unsanitary drinking water (also no move has been made to rectify this problem) and are blaming the disaster on poor public awareness about sanitation. I am ever grateful for public health care and clean drinking water. We have an exceptional facilities in Canada – there is always room for improvement but I can be pretty certain that it is very unlikely that I will die from unclean water or extreme diarrhea. And that is something to be incredibly grateful for.
I got to go to school…even though I was a girl…and they spoke my language in the classroom. The government released the new budget this week, much to the anticipation of many citizens. Working in education advocacy in Nepal means that the most important number in the budget was the allocation to education. Did we see an increase? Will it be enough to carry out the promise of free and compulsory education for all Nepali children? Well, the budget came in at about 16% – not terrible, but not a great improvement. It is true that it is the most that education in Nepal has ever been allocated. But the international standard and recommended allocation is 20% of the GDP. Salaries for employees make up the bulk of this 16%, leaving little left for scholarships, textbooks, classrooms, resources, and teacher training. The quality of education depends on the quality of the government’s investment. Without a stronger investment there will continue to be girls, ethnic minorities, and Dalit children who will go without access to this basic right. If you can read this then you have many reasons to be grateful.

Honouring Fridays: July 10th, 2009

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We are rounding the corner to the end of month 8 in Nepal. It is really, really hard to believe. But when I look at my life here, maybe it’s not so hard to believe after all. I barely notice the roving cattle in the middle of the busy streets, I am adept at dodging various forms of excrement on the sidewalk, I didn’t blink when I saw the fruit man sharpening his knife on the edge of the curb, I feel naked with a jauntily tossed scarf around my neck, mangos have become their own food group, I can jump from taxi-micro-bus-tuk-tuk easily and without hesitation, I walk into oncoming traffic regularly and am confident that a brief wave of the hand will allow me to cross safely, and I am starting to think that the earlier in the day one gets to eat something curried, the better.

Teej. Shrawan is the name of the Nepali month from mid-July to mid-August. Typically, all Nepali months are about the same length as Roman calendar months but they begin halfway through a Roman month and end halfway through the next Roman month. Shrawan is an important month on the Nepali calendar for women. During this month is the celebration of Teej. Teej is a festival of women filled with dancing, singing, ritual bathing, and fasting for up to 3 days. Red clothes are typically worn during this time to symbolize joy and happiness, reflecting also the marriage ceremony when women wear red saris. Married women pray for happy marriages and healthy, long lives for their husbands. Unmarried women pray for finding a good husband. What I appreciate is a whole month with a strong focus on women. True, the focus is on the role of women as wives, which seems limited and perhaps slightly old fashioned, but here in Nepal this is a very important role. For me, it will be more about women coming together in kinship, spirit, and celebration. And I did buy some green glass bangles, which promote health and good blessings for your husband…can’t hurt right?
My new lunch spot. With the new office move I found myself without the common comforts of my old office. Most notably lunch! We had such lovely daal bhaat and curried vegetables every day and the thought of packing a lunch and slogging it all the way to work was unappealing. So, I and my colleague Sujata, stepped out to find a nearby eatery. We walked about 10 meters down the road. And stopped. And there was a lovely, small, local, and bustling shop. Owned by a gracious and kind family that has developed a strong customer base from the private school next door – oodles of uniformed children stop there for snacks after class. They sell some of the best samosas, alu chop (like a heavily spiced, chickpea flour coated, deep fried, mashed potato finger), and vegetable momos I have found in my time in Nepal. And the momos are about 25 NPR which is about 25 cents….hard to beat. Now we go twice a day – once in the morning for tea and samosas and once for lunch of momos, chops, and a cool Sprite.
Homemade Sun Tea. Easily one of the most thirst quenching, satisfying, and quick drinks to make. Tea is plentiful, sugar is local, and small lime/lemons – kargatti – are always available. Plus, the regular and intense sunshine makes perfect sun-tea! I read the numerous warnings about the health risks of sun tea (seriously?) and decided that the risks for sun tea and decidedly less risky than most of the other food I ingest on a daily basis. I have taken to using flavoured teas like raspberry and peach (can’t get the real fruit here so the subtle flavour infused in the tea satisfies the basic need). Topped with some sugar and fresh squeezed kargatti – delicious!
Gandharba musicians. One of my great VSO colleagues, Raj, comes from the musical Dalit caste, also called the Gandharba caste. Historically, castes were formed by grouping certain professions. Professions that were considered favourable, powerful, or prestigious are upper castes. And those that were considered menial, degrading, or sacrilegious were deemed lower caste. The arts, overall, were considered low caste professions and as such many of the Nepali artists belong to the Dalit caste. Raj is passionate about his history and spends every free moment, when not working on VSO stuff, promoting, sharing, and enhancing the public awareness of the Gandharba caste. Today he was featured on a national radio program, he regularly writes articles for various publications, has won international awardsfor his work on Dalit issues, and he has recently helped to create a relationship with a musical school in India which provides a scholarship to one Nepali musicians each year and has just begun to offer a course in traditional Nepali music. I am grateful for all he does to work on behalf of Dalits in Nepal, especially the very talented Gandharba musicians. To download some Gandharba music to sample look here.