Category Archives: Travel in Nepal

Honouring Fridays: September 11th, 2009

Well folks, this is the beginning of the end.  The beginning of my vacation (well, almost) and the end of working like a maniac…for a whole 4 weeks! We look forward to greeting my parents at the airport on Tuesday night and embarking on a trip to Pokhara, a short mountain trek, a bunch of small day trips around Kathmandu, and then a 9 day trip around Rajasthan in India.  And with this adventure comes the great need to disconnect from my life in Kathmandu…just enough to clear the mind and rejuvenate the spirit.

So, this will be my final Friday gratitude post for the next 4 weeks.  I may post some photos of our trip or the odd note during this time but will return in earnest with my weekly musings on things I am grateful for on Friday, October 16th.  Until then enjoy the beginning of Fall – bake an apple crisp, buy a new sweater, and  crush some dry leaves underfoot.

  • XMind.  On two instances over the past month I have needed to pull together a partnership map to show the connections between various stakeholders, community groups, partners, government, donors and volunteers.  In non-development speak this is really just a  complex organizational diagram that shows how any involved is connected to anyone else involved.  After fiddling for some time with the PowerPoint org chart functions I quickly realized they were much too hierarchical for our holistic approach.  So, off to the web to find something better (and free, and open source…of course!).  Enter XMind, a great tool for mind-mapping of the complex and chaotic variety.  Here is an example of what I was able to do.
  • Dhaka topi.  I have been taking more notice lately of the tradition Nepali caps that men here wear.  Topi ithe general word for hat and dhaka is the cloth used to make traditional Nepali mens wear.  When used together they refer to the hat worn when wearing the dhaka clothes.  They are jaunty, colourful, and rather charming.  Somehow, they remind me of time passed – I imagine what Kathmandu might have looked like years ago, with bikes being the main mode of transport, when colourful dhaka topis topped the head of every man riding a bike…it must have looked something like this.
  • Sel roti.  Sel roti looks like a large skinny donut.  It is a sweetened rice flour bread that is deep fried and eaten with Nepali tea or with a snack of curried chick peas.  I ate my first sel roti last week as they are a common snack around festival time.  I have not yet had the guts  to try and make them but if you want to give it a go, here is a good recipe.  The slight crunch of the ground  rice bits gives the texture of cornmeal and the sweet dough with the slight hint of banana flavour all drenched in a crispy greasy crust…delicious!
  • The right amount of time.  Enough time to appreciate, notice, and enjoy what is around you.  Not so much time  that you feel stuck and stagnant.  Enough time to soak it all in.  Not so much time to feel you might never make it to the end.  Enough time to feel powerfully connected.  Not so much time that powerful connections turn into resentful relationships.  Just the exact right amount of time when everything makes sense.

Honouring Fridays: August 29th, 2009

Call me crazy, but I think I feel a chill in the air.  The temperature dipped below 20 degrees and as we scrambled to get the blankets back on the bed I realized just how much my internal thermometer has shifted.  Since when did 20 degrees become cold?  And how much will I shiver when I get home and an hour of rain isn’t followed by blazing hot sunshine?  But perhaps it isn’t temperature at all, but rather old habits driving this need to cozy up – with September around the corner it somehow just feels like the right thing to do.

  • Work days that allow for a quick venue research trip up a mountain to resort-ish type location where one can see the Himalayan vistas. Need I say more?  In comparison it would be like being asked to visit Whistler (albeit much less fancy) for a day and report back on the quality of the hotel rooms, meeting halls, and menus of possible workshop venues.   And our selection was…Hotel Country Villa.  Beautiful rooms, fantastic food and excellent (read inspiring) views.  Sigh…work is tough some days!  The only piece of this day that I was not as grateful for was the screeching and precariously speedy trip up the mountain side to get to said location.  Thankfully, I was not riding on the roof of a public bus…it was scary enough from the backseat of a car.
  • Pothole warnings.  due to some very heavy rainstorms lately, some of the paved roadways are developing rather large, almost crater like, holes.  On my regular walking route to the tuk-tuk stop I had noticed some sinking spots in the pavement.  But literally overnight, these sink holes had sunk to new lows…giant hollow spaces beneath the pavement, much like cracking the head of a chocolate Easter bunny – the hole may look small from the top but is cavernous underneath.  So, to warn drivers who are speeding through the streets the neighbourhood solution is to prop a tall tree-like branch into the hole.  No bright tape, coloured ribbons, massive orange cones, or heavily roped off areas.  Just a bamboo branch waving lazily in the breeze and blending very wall into the surroundings.  I admit the holes were fixed within a week, an excellent turnaround time for Nepal, but Iam still left marveling at the simplicity of it all.
  • Being able to get work done in a cyber. Cyber is Nepali speak for an internet cafe – minus the cafe.  A bunch of old computers crammed into a small shop along with phone booths, a copy machine, and some dusty office supplies.  Speeds vary, monitors are often discoloured and flickering, and keyboards have notoriously sticky keys.  But right now, we have no internet in our office and have not had for the past 3 months.  So, this means regular trips to the local cyber to check and answer email.  And I am still somewhat shocked (and grateful!) for the amount of work we manage to do in these little cybers.  The noise level is ridiculous, with locals calling family gone to work in the Middle East and yelling over a poor reception, the ergonomics would make any office rep cringe, and there are always a gaggle of folks reading email over your shoulder.  However, with a bit of focus and preseverance we have managed to operate this way for 3 months.  Not ideal, but somehow satisfying.  And a tribute to a culture like Nepal where people simply are not bothered by these small inconveniences.
  • Peanut butter cookies.  It was a moment of madness and I was blinded by a recollection of smell and taste.  I had been dreaming about this particular version of peanuttyness for a few weeks but thought that the feeling would wear off.  It didn’t.  It got worse.  So, after trying desperately to ignore it, I caved and sent R on a scrambling race to the corner store for some peanut butter and baked out my craving with only moments to spare before the power cut started for the evening.  They were delicious and I think worth the madness.  My only excuse is that it was a back-to-school treat (without the back to school part)!

Honouring Fridays: June 5th, 2009

The weekend ahead is full relaxing – no plans and no plans to make any plans.  When I started posting blogs on Fridays the idea was to recognize just how much potential and excitment was wrapped into a Friday – to honour that magical anticipation with some bold words of appreciation.  I am amazed that after writing posts for every Friday since January, I am still full of things to be grateful for.  And while I may have slipped for moments of whining, focussing on the positive things has certainly kept my spirits high and my perspectives in check…no problems, just inconveniences 🙂

  • Lychees.  The season of fresh lychees is in full swing all over Nepal.  The rough brown and pink exterior hides inside a rather gelatinous looking eyeball of sweet, juicy goodness.  I, for one, don’t mind the texture but I could see how it may throw some people off.  Eaten by the dozens they leave the fingers sticky with sugar and rough shards of husk everywhere!  But they are beautiful to look at and sold by the 1 kg bunch from the neighbourhood fruit seller.  I discovered that I had many unanswered questions about the lychee that wikipedia just didn’t have the answers to – enter LycheesOnline with the best set of FAQs I could find including “Can I plant the seeds from my lychee fruit to grow a lychee tree?” – everytime I eat a lychee is this the question I ask myelf.  The answer – YES!
  • Change. The VSO Office in Nepal is undergoing some very drastic changes over the next few months.  Staff are moving on to new opportunities, having babies, and shifting focus.  Additionally, there is a large corporate strategic review happening right now as well.  Everything is in flux.  Nothing feels stable or firm.  However, deep inside that change is opportunity.  It is small, hard to see, and sometimes only evident after squinting for a really long time, but in the distance is the light at the end of the tunnel that brings fresh ideas, renewed energy andexceptional creativity.  There is much to be grateful for but today I am grateful for possibilities.
  • Will Ferrell in Man Vs. Wild.  So, Man vs. Wild is apparently, a really popular show on Discovery channel.  I don’t watch it but I couldn’t resist downloading an episode that featured the Man (Bear Grylls) out in the Arctic of Sweden with Will Ferrell.  It was fantastic!  And it helped cool me down with the scenes of snow and ice in this humid hot house of an apartment.
  • Getting out of Kathmandu. Last weekend we took to the river and had an amazing time rafting through the green hills of Nepal.  What I appreciated most about this experience was that it pulled the focus away from Kathmandu and reminded me just how incredible Nepal truly is.  The geography is extreme, the beauty is intense, and the poverty is very real.  But the poverty, while shocking to some, is simply life for many Nepalis.  They eat what they can grow and live simply.  So, while we make every effort to help Nepali people eliminate poverty, let us not also remove their ability to choose in the process.  While we may see the benefits of refrigerators, cement houses, and products for every possible cleaning dilemma, they see the benefits of house made from local materials, eating daily and not relying on foods that need to stay cold, and having immune systems that cleaning products would actually weaken.  Poverty is not equivalent to a desire to change or a need for a different life.  It means the need for food, clean drinking water, and education – and then choice to determine the type of life they want.

Honoring Fridays: April 17th, 2009

Where to begin!  Last weekend we had a spectacular trip to Pokhara which has a spectacular location on Lake Fewa, nestled into the “hills” (read large incredible mountains which to the locals are nothing in comparison to the Himalayas but to everyone else are fully mountains).  It was our anniversary trip so we kept it totally unscheduled and just enjoyed the spontaneity and indulgence of it all.  Without a doubt the best part was the swimming pool – with temperatures hovering around a humid 30 degrees C, there was nothing more refreshing than spending the day in the pool.  Now for my weekly dose of gratitude…

  • Planning(as I call it)/Dreaming (as he calls it). Many of our conversations during the weekend centred around what the next year might bring – dreaming about the future and just what we imagined and hoped for ourselves and each other.  There is something utterly thrilling to think ahead to what is possible and let the mind race ahead a bit.  The risk, of course, is that present time is less appreciated, less thoughtfull spent, and less enjoyed.  However, we indulged and just dreamed about what might be…it was hopeful, inspired, and energizing…thanks to Pokhara for inspiring our next dreams.
  • Sweet chili sauce. Condiment of the gods, sweet chili sauce is one of the few condiments in our fridge (currently soya sauce, dijon mustard, butter, and sweet chili sauce are actually all that are in our fridge at all…we are confident that when the power is out they are “tough enough” to withstand some subtle warming without turning into poison).  What I do recommend is sweet chili sauce on friend rice.  Delectably spicy and sweet at the same time with the nice firm crunch of vegetables.  Better, in fact, than the traditional soya sauce.  Not at all Nepali in any way but cheap and tasty nonetheless.
  • Summer fabrics. With the onset of hot weather the prospect of shopping has once again popped into possibility.  Exceptionally cheap and perfect for hot weather is fantastic linens, cottons of every colour, hue, pattern, design and combination of emrboidery, sparkly sequins, or complex hand painting.  I will admit that the clothes I brought from home are no longer suitable for this weather – they are sticky, heavy, and these days at least 3 sizes too big.  That means a trip to my local tailor for something new…yipppee!
  • New load shedding schedules. All I can say is we are down from 19 hours a day to 12…it almost feels luxurious and decadent…its not…but it still feels like it, so while the euphoria lasts I am going to enjoy it.

Honouring Fridays: April 10th, 2009

Looking back on the past year it strikes me just how much my life has changed.  So much happened!  The anniversary of our elopment is this weekend on April 12th. Rex decided to pull a surprise and book a wonderful 4-day weekend in Pokhara…he spilled the beans this morning when he mistakenly mentioned that “while we are in Pokhara…”.  Also, many thanks to VSO for moving our marriage decision forward in a big way…got married so we could volunteer in Ethiopia and here we are in Nepal…whoops…well good thing that if we ever need to volunteer in Ethiopia we will be ready : )

This weekend will provide some time to reflect on the past year and dream about adventures in the year ahead.  Next week is also Nepali New Year – a timely moment to be celebrating our anniversary and thinking about the beginning of another year together.  This post is all my gratitude towards that handsome man in the photo over there…

  • The way you make me tea in the morning. Mornings begin early here.  And while this doesn’t mean we actually get out of bed before 6am, this does mean that the sounds of our neighbourhood waking up start around 4.30am.  So, there are many mornings when waking up is hard…regardless of how early you get to bed the night before, 4:30 is still an early time to begin the slow process of waking.  But the best, best, best part about every morning is knowning that you will sneak out of bed, walk down to the little shop on the corner and buy milk so we can have tea in the morning.  A small action but I know there is lots of love in that dudh chiyaa.
  • The way people just like you. I take some time to warm up to new people.  I am friendly enough but know that new friends will be kept at an arm’s length until I have made up my mind.  You, however, are just how I wish I could be – open, warm, genuine, and immediately likeable.  How many times have we met a new group of people and they have remarked to me, in confidence later, just how much they truly enjoy you.  You are everyone’s favourite warm-hearted soul and I am proud to snuggle my soul next to your kind soul.
  • Your passion…for libraries, for small towns, for rural life, for gardens, for technical gadgets, for peggle, for www.thegreenpages.ca, for blogging, for the West Coast, for my cooking, for the internet, for friends, for taking a nice walk, for enjoy what is, for adventure, for trying anything once, for taking care of people, for helping, for family, for goodness, for peace, for all that is right in the world.  It is contagious and inspiring to watch you dream and imagine what is possible.  I am a greater believer in the unreal and impossible because I see you make it real and possible every day.
  • Your hugs. Nothing is more comforting or more reassuring than coming home from a crazy day and walking into a warm hug from you.  That will always be the most satisfying and rejuvenating way to end any day.  May your hugs be ever more plentiful as we grow old together and may I always be there to hug you right back.

Chitawan

Exhausted but happy we arrived back in Kathmandu from a whirlwind trip to to the Nepal jungle.  Rather than try to write every last detail down, please consider joining me as your virtual guide, here, on a photo tour of our weekend in Chitawan.  The best way to view is with the slideshow option in Picasa – all photos have captions…sorry they are so long!

Enjoy!